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9 November 2009  |  Wine   |  Article

A Preview of the 2009 Hospices de Beaune Auction: A Vintage Report and Expert Notes

2009 Burgundies will be Superb, Following Excellent Summer & Vintage
After favourable weather in early Spring, the vineyards of the Hospices de Beaune were in full flower by the end of May. This was a great start, for two reasons. Firstly, fine weather during the flowering allowed for well-formed bunches and regular grape-ripening, both factors of quality. Secondly, the early flowering led to an early harvest, allowing flexibility over individual start-dates, from plot to plot, as full ripening was completed.

From mid-April until 10 July temperatures were above average (compared to 1971-2000), with significant hot-spots. There was heavy rain around Bastille Day, then a gloomy period, until end July. Then August brought magnificent weather. Temperatures in Beaune were consistently above the norm. The thermometer exceeded  30°C. on 7 occasions, and reached 35°C. or above, on 3 others.  Sunshine hours were 15% higher, and rainfall nearly 40% lower, than normal.

Two short, stormy periods in August brought beneficial rains to the vines, without damaging the grapes.  Thanks to the hot weather, acidities began to drop away and sugars became concentrated.

The first grapes from the Hospices vineyards were harvested in Pouilly-Fuissé on Thursday 3rd September.  The vintage began in earnest the following Monday afternoon, in the vineyards of Beaune.  For nine days, while the picking lasted, the weather was magnificent, with blue skies, occasional clouds, and sunny, dry conditions. Some stiff breezes helped concentrate the juice in the grapes, and cool nights helped maintain those acidities which are essential to give wines natural freshness and balance.

For red wines, careful sorting took place, in vineyard and winery, to eliminate less-than-perfect grapes.  Inspecting them carefully, it was obvious that many had thick skins, which were chewy, aromatic and flavoursome. The pips were brown and ripe, the stems often lignified, showing that full ripeness had been reached.

As fermentations ended, Roland Masse, the Hospices wine maker, remarked: «The Pinot Noir grapes had such striking, individual aromas and fruitiness this year – which we are finding now, in the freshly-run wines in barrel.  There has been excellent potential for making richly tannic, fully ripened wines.  2009 looks on stream to be a GREAT vintage….»

Thanks to the superb ripeness and health of the fruit, many whole bunches went into the red Cuvées this year. This allowed fermentations to be extended, and, aided by judicious punchings-down of the cap of grape-skins, gentle extractions to be achieved.

The white wines look extremely promising. With the harvest weather so perfect, it was possible to pick individual First Growth Meursaults and Grand Cru whites at exactly the right moment, plot by plot – their sugars concentrated, their skins fully ripened, their natural acidities intact.  

One New Cuvée will be Offered
After a donation in 1992, two finely-placed vineyard plots in Saint-Romain were replanted with Chardonnay vines in 1996, and 1997. The vines are now sufficiently mature for their produce - Saint Romain Cuvée Joseph Menault - to join the other great whites in the Auction.

The Vintage, and the Market
The harvest is relatively abundant, allowing the Hospices to offer a generous quantity, 799 barrels, for sale on Sunday, 15 November. In total there will be 44 Cuvées: 31 red wines, and 13 whites.

It is too early to venture ideas about styles, but easy to be excited by the potential quality of this vintage!  Sumptuous, harmonious red wines are certainly being made, with robust tannins in some cases, silky aftertastes in others. The whites may prove to be the best since 2005.

This sale could be a rare opportunity for bidders to buy sizeable parcels of outstanding Burgundy at reasonable prices, from many of the region's greatest First Growth and Grand Cru sites. We urge you to take part for your own cellar, for colleagues, friends, children and grand-children!

Please visit christies.com to read Anthony Hanson's tasting notes for the 2009 Vintage.


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