FEATURES ARCHIVE

In Summary: Initially overshadowed by the excellent 2005s, 2006 in fact produced many fine wines. It appears to be a good vintage, particularly for some of the top châteaux.

A Winemakers Vintage?: On the left bank, the top châteaux of the Médoc were able to pick late and make strict selections of later ripening cabernet grapes to produce some fine wines. In Pessac-Léognan those able to pick the early ripening merlot, before the rains, produced some great wines. Similarly on the right bank, the Pomerol region excelled and Saint Emilion, although more irregular, produced some great classics.

Weather: The early summer months of June and July were hot which gave the potential for a brilliant vintage. However August was cool and rainy with September varied. The overall result was for lower yields and lower acidity.

Humidity: In mid September there were some heavy downpours which caused some problems with rot, hence rigorous selection for the ‘grand vins’.

For the cellar or ready the table?: Many 2006 Bordeaux wines will be attractive for drinking when young. Top châteaux, such as Mouton-Rothschild, Lafite-Rothschild, Latour, Margaux or La Mission-Haut-Brion, should have the potential to last 20–30 years.

Buy it now: A selection of 2006 Bordeaux in our forthcoming sale includes: Château Latour 12 bottles per lot £2,400–2,800, Château Margaux 12 bottles per lot £2,000–3,000, Château La Mission-Haut-Brion 12 bottles per lot £2,000–2,400 and Château Ausone 12 bottles per lot £5,000–6,000.

 One of the handful of candidates for wine of the vintage is the 2006 Ausone. In fact, while tasting it, I was thinking, is there any estate in Bordeaux that, since 1998, has made as many legendary wines as proprietor Alain Vauthier has at his beloved Ausone? Boasting an inky/blue/purple colour as well as an extraordinary, precise bouquet of minerals, flowers, blueberry liqueur, and blackcurrants, this wine possesses fabulous fruit and great intensity, but what makes it so special is its precision, focus, and almost ethereal lightness despite substantial flavour intensity and depth. It is a ballerina with density and power. The abundant noticeable tannin is sweet and, not surprisingly, very finely grained. It should be cellared for a decade, and consumed over the following half century.

- Robert Parker, Wine Advocate 181, February 2009