FEATURES ARCHIVE

At least once a decade, the owners of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti decide that it is time to look back at recent vintages of their wines, reflecting on how their vineyards are performing, and how their wines are developing, with bottle-age and careful storage.

Discussion internally of these matters is on-going at the Domaine, year on year, but occasionally, a team of Burgundy enthusiasts from the outside world is assembled, for a major tasting, review and discussion. In June 2009, I was lucky to join with 7 other writers and commentators, for such a review, and there were four hosts. The names of the Associés-Gérants, representing the two owning families, are familiar to all those who enjoy DRC bottlings, as their signatures are on the labels: Aubert de Villaine (who turns 70 this year) and Henry-Frédéric Roch. Bernard Noblet, general manager, who has been in charge of wine-making since 1986, supervised the event.  And this was an opportunity to meet Aubert’s nephew, Bertrand de Villaine, who one day may succeed him, representing the family, along with recently-appointed Nicolas Jacob, vineyard-manager. There was a sixth co-host, Jean-Charles Cuvelier, the Gérants’ right hand man, one might say, who looked after our every need.

The Vines
DRC owns over 5 hectares of the Romanée-Saint-Vivant vineyard - more than half the total appellation.  Aubert de Villaine explained that, from the late 1990s, different sectors of their vineyard were vinified separately. Certain vines on certain root-stocks were more productive, giving less concentrated wine, than others, and needed to be separated from the best productions. Some plots were marked for re-planting, others to have small-berried Pinots grafted on to their fine root-stocks. By 1999, they became convinced that sacrifices and investments would be needed, to bring the whole production to the highest levels of harmony and complexity, to be under-taken progressively. This is on-going.

The Wines
18 vintages of Romanée-Saint-Vivant were tasted, from 2007 back to 1990. The wines were all served from magnum (except 2006, 1994 and 1991, from bottles).  All wines were opened 5 minutes before being served, and poured without decanting.

2007
Medium deep garnet; nose shows ripe cherries and toasty oak, with rooty character.  Palate is full and broad, the fruitiness now creamy, with gentle tannins, slightly lacking concentration, still tight – 16.75

2006
Deeper purple-garnet all the way to rim; bright, fresh fruitiness, sooty and spicy with fine oakiness still apparent.  This has intense, fruity grip, with rich middle palate, tannins not yet softened, classic length and great potential - 18.25

2005
Impressively deep, still youthful purple-garnet; nose includes ripe black fruits, smokiness and roasted cherries.  Palate is broadly structured, with powerful middle,  superb tannins, great distinction, perfect harmony.  Not yet luscious, but great length and massive potential – 19.5

2004
Garnet with tawny rim; rose-petal fragrance of bottle-aged wine is emerging, fine and lovely.  Silky-textured, showing superb, fine fruit, freshness, elegance and charm.  A beautiful example from a lighter year – 18.25

2003
Rich purple to rim; nose shows roasted, opulent ripe fruitiness, not yet complex but fresh.  Suave and fleshy, with powerful mid-palate fruit, then firm tannins and some bitterness on finish.  One dimensional, as yet, begging the question : How will complexity develop, as its tannins evolve ? – 18.25

2002
Ruby-red with browning rim; lightly fruity, stemmy and oaky, with fragrant perfume moving between youthful and aged character.  Starts silky, with fine fresh fruit, balanced for a light year; but this lacks intensity and length – 16.5

2001
Fairly pale garnet red, the rim evolved and tawny; nose is smoky, meaty, fragrant and spicy.  Palate is full and structured, with strong tannins which will need 3-5 years to soften.  An elegant, immature beauty, with good potential – 17.5+

2000
There is a solid depth of colour at this wine’s core, the nose being youthful, complex, fragrant and rich.  On the palate, lighter structure than 2001, with solid middle and chalky tannins in evidence, which need time to soften – 17

1999
Very deep, purple red, with meaty, ripe, black fruits character and caramelised, upside-down fruit-tart character.  A full-bodied, richly built magnificently fleshy wine, with fabulous mid-palate, and tannins in perfect harmony.  It perhaps lacks a tiny bit of freshness on the finish otherwise perfect – 19.5

1998
Impressively deep red, with rim just turning, the nose being rooty, meaty and slightly stemmy, but rich and complex.  Super, fruity start, with impressive middle and full finish.  Tannins are not bitter, freshness is apparent, medium length - this needs 3-5 years – 18.5

1997
Red-brown colour, more evolved than 1998;  the nose shows aged perfumes, with elegant fresh fruitiness, opening up in glass.  This has a sweet, fresh start, and lovely balance, with vibrant, chalky tannins on the finish.  May be drunk or kept, but already delicious – 18

1996
Good depth of still-youthful colour ushers in a nose which is rich and fresh, with the oak barrel character still apparent, giving meaty, spicy complexity.  Fresh fruitiness, with power at start, are apparent, then firmness on the finish, with acidity noticeable.  Only medium-concentrated in mid-palate, reflecting a year of large production – 17.5

1995
Impressive red, with rim just browning; nose is smoky, perfumed, complex, fresh.  Richly powerful from start to finish, with softening tannins and great length.  This is superb, though not yet mature, needing 2-5 years – improves in the glass – 18.5+

1994
Impressive depth of colour for a light vintage, just browning; fresh raspberry aromas, slightly vegetal.  Starts well, then mid-palate seemed absent, with drying tannins on finish.  Decanting would have been beneficial, as palate filled in, and this improved with aeration in the glass.  Serve now or keep 2-5 years, in hope – 16+

1993
Has similar depth of colour to 1995, with browner rim; nose shows roasted cherries and smokiness. Lovely, sweet start, then succulent, rich middle, finishing earthy and tree-barky, with tannins not yet fully softened – 18

1992
Impressive colour, with nose showing complex combination of vegetal and fruity aromas, not yet fully mature.  Sweet and elegant with lovely fruit, delicious for drinking now, its silkiness and delicacy very seductive – 17.75

1991
Rich garnet, with browning rim; fragrant, aging vegetation Pinot Noir aromas, very perfumed.  This starts strongly, with medium-full body and good fruit, finishing still firm – 17.5

1990
Rich ruby of medium depth, the perfume profoundly complex, still youthful, many layered.  The palate shows superb richness, with excellent middle and impressive tannins, not yet fully resolved – a magnificent, wonderful wine with many years development to come – 19.5