FEATURES ARCHIVE

“Put five wine lovers in a room, and you’re bound to have at least six opinions” is a common aphorism among wine collectors. The world of wine is a place that is often fraught with good-natured controversy, and it is relatively rare to get two wine lovers to agree on anything regarding their passion. There is one area, however, where most wine lovers will agree: the finest dry white wines in the world come from Burgundy.

Certainly there are partisans of other wines, but few real pretenders to this particular crown. This has much to do with the grape variety in question. Most white Burgundy is made from Chardonnay. While there is a proportion made from Aligoté, and a few rare examples from Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, the fact remains that this is essentially a one-grape category.

Other white wine grapes produce wonderful wine, but none can rival Chardonnay for this honor: Riesling is a very noble grape, but the majority of the wines produced have at least some sweetness to them, and the same can be said of Semillon and Chenin Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc produces crisp, refreshing characterful dry wines, particularly when blended with Semillon, but they are seldom as long lived as are the finest Burgundies. While lovers of Haut-Brion Blanc might argue this last contention, I suggest that the exception proves the rule in this instance.

Chardonnay is an easy grape to grow in many places, but it truly flourishes in Burgundy, from the Kimmeridgean clay soils of Chablis to the limestone and Marl of the Côte d’Or. Each particular combination of place and soil with this grape produces a distinct result. The wines of Chablis are racy, mineral and fine, with powerful acidity; Musigny Blanc is exotically tropical and floral in nature; Corton-Charlemagne is rich, broad and nuanced; Meursault can be decadently buttery; wines from Puligny are steely and firm; those of Chassagne are floral and delicate.

Few would disagree that the grand cru of Le Montrachet produces the ultimate expression of this grape. The vineyard faces due east, and is protected from westerly winds by the Montrachet hill. The soil is marl over a hard limestone base with a high proportion of pebbles, providing a rich nutrient base and great drainage for the vineyard to assure just the right amount of water. These characteristics, along with the eastern exposure, are what help ripen the grapes to perfection.

The final result is sublime, producing wines that can last for decades. Even a lesser year is capable of producing wonders. A recent bottle of 1987 Montrachet from the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti demonstrates this complexity. My note reads as follows: “Stupendously exotic on the nose, the ’87 Montrachet is developed but very lively, with notes of coconut, honey, almond, quince, truffle, caramel, vanilla, and sous-bois on the nose. On the palate the wine shows firm acidity, a rich, silken texture and great length.”

The vineyards surrounding Le Montrachet also merit grand cru status, and each has its own character. Chevalier Montrachet is the furthest up the slope, and has the coolest microclimate and the thinnest soils, producing structured, firm wines. Bâtard-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard Montrachetshare the breed and complexity of Montrachet, but generally have a bit less elegance, chiefly because the soil is a bit deeper here and has fewer pebbles. Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet is a small appellation with a reputation for delicacy.

These neighbors of Montrachet can, in a good year, rival Montrachet itself, especially in experienced hands. Few have greater magic than Domaine Leflaive, based in Puligny. Leflaive owns nearly 2 hectares of Chevalier-Montrachet, and typically produces the most successful bottlings made from this vineyard. My note on the most recent vintage reads as follows: “The 2008 showed a great richness and complexity on the nose, with notes of tropical and citrus fruits along with pronounced aromas of fresh white flowers, mineral, smoke, roast nuts, and honey. On the palate the wine exhibits a most extraordinary balance between the rich, plush, waxy texture and the vibrant acidity. Wow!”

Wow indeed! White Burgundy is a sublime vinous treat, and there’s no better time to drink it than a warm summer’s afternoon. Enjoy your summer!