FEATURES ARCHIVE

He’s got time on his side
Meet Sam Hines, Christie’s Head of Watches in New York. With a journey that began when he spotted a Rolex Submariner in a London shop window at age 18 and includes a watch-making course at Patek Philippe’s Geneva factory, he says he’s still only beginning to satisfy his obsession for horology. Read on as Sam sounds off on what it’s like to be a “member of the club,” coming across a multi-million dollar watch when least expected, and why classic looks never go out of style…

What watch do you wear, Sam?
For everyday use, I wear a Rolex Submariner that my Dad gave to me on my 18th birthday. I had originally spotted the watch in a London shop window while walking with him one afternoon, and I think he recognized my growing interest in watches and wanted to encourage me to pursue my passions. I also recently purchased a Patek Philippe ref. 5296G, which I wear mostly for special occasions, and on sale days. Its design is very modern and minimalist, and was inspired by a watch that Patek first began making in the 1930s. To me it represents the culmination of style and design by one of the greatest luxury watch manufacturers of all time.

Where and when did your love of timepieces begin?
I entered the field as an administrator in the Watches department of a rival auction house, and it wasn’t long before I developed a real obsession. It fascinated me to think that these tiny movements could be as complex as those of a car engine and in some cases even more complicated when you count the various horological complications. I also became exposed to a sort of “club” of people who have taken the time to educate themselves and truly appreciate watches. I wanted desperately to join that club—to share in that knowledge and informed appreciation. Thankfully, watch aficionados are always delighted to initiate new members to their club. From my role as an administrator, I became a cataloguer and eventually a specialist in the London office. I subsequently left the auction world for one year to join Patek Philippe’s New York office, where I saw the retail side of the business. While it was a tremendous experience, I found I greatly missed the variety of people and the rhythm of the auction world. Once you’ve experienced that kind of pace and dynamism, it can be very hard to let go! I returned to Christie’s New York to head up the Watch department in 2008.

How did you go on to become an expert?
I truly believe that firsthand experience is necessary to become an expert in horology—it is difficult to fully appreciate the technical side of watches through textbooks or auction catalogues although they do help a great deal. Working at an auction house exposes you to all types of watches on a daily basis, and in that sense I suppose mine was an “on-the-job” training, in large part. When your mentors and colleagues are the leading experts in the industry, you absorb a lot of information in that environment. While working for Patek, I attended a fascinating watch-making course at the firm’s factory in Geneva. We studied the origins and evolution of time-telling, as well as took apart and reassembled watches in order to better understand how they are made. It was an incredible learning experience through which I developed an even deeper respect for the craft of watchmaking.

There are so many factors to consider for first-time buyers. Can you offer any tips to readers in search of their first timepiece?
Ultimately, I think people should buy what they like, and what they think they will wear. Beyond that, I would encourage buyers to look for the best quality watch in their price range. First-time buyers should always educate themselves on the condition of a watch before buying, which isn’t usually a problem—today’s collectors are incredibly savvy. If buying with hopes of a watch appreciating in value, then rarity and condition should be at the top of your list. One last thing I think buyers should always bear in mind is that “classics” will never go out of fashion. If it’s within your price range, an excellent option in our June sale for both first-time purchasers and seasoned connoisseurs is a Rolex triple-calendar chronograph from 1950 in gold, the “Jean Claude Killy” which is the name affectionately given to this reference by collectors, estimated at $90,000 - 120,000. It is being offered by a private collector who hardly used it at all. As a result, the watch is in near perfect condition, with its hallmarks intact and a reference number on the back of the case (normally these rub off with wear because they are so lightly engraved).

It’s not surprising that the luxury markets are affected by the current economic climate. Do you think christie’s recent watch sales have aligned with these trends or defied them?
During our Fall season, even as the economic crises unfolded, our sales in Geneva, New York, Dubai and Hong Kong still performed very well, which reaffirms that watches offer a uniquely stable and lasting value. I think that the recent Yves Saint Laurent auction in Paris confirms that there’s still plenty of liquidity out there, and that rare and quality works will always do well at auction. Looking ahead to our Spring season, I will say that our sales are slightly smaller in terms of the number of lots. But we remain confident, because the average lot price—and more importantly, the quality—has not declined at all.

Can you tell me about one of your most memorable moments as a watch specialist?
During my first week working as a cataloguer, a client had an appointment to bring in a watch for an auction estimate. I was the only one in the department that day, and when I went to meet with the client, they revealed a one and a half million dollar watch! Because I was so new to the job, I didn’t know the exact value on the spot, but I knew enough to recognize that it was exceptional. When they opened that red velvet box, I almost fell out of my chair. I literally had to excuse myself to gain composure. It proved to me that you never know when and where you will encounter a watch that takes your breath away!