FEATURES ARCHIVE

The History
Mauboussin’s history originates as early as 1827 when Mr Rocher opened a small jewellery boutique on Rue Greneta in Paris. After a change of hands the growing business was named Mauboussin in 1922. Following the economic downturn of 1929 Mauboussin was forced to close its New York branch while its legacy continued in Paris. Mauboussin’s stock from the New York store was acquired by Trabert & Hoeffer, an American jewellery business founded only a few years earlier. From then until 1953 all works were signed Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin after which they resumed their independent entities once again.

The Jewellery
Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin went on to design and craft memorable Art Deco and ‘Retro’ jewellery developing a special line in the 1930s called “Reflection –Your Personality in a Jewel” where women were invited to reflect their personalities in their jewels. They could choose their preferred stones and design or even ‘reflectionise’ old jewels of their own. The spirals and twisted forms seen here are characteristic of the Reflection line and a closer look at the amethyst features reveals how floral forms inspired the jewellers. The theatrical and stylish brooch is typical of their 1940s designs.

The Models
The custom-made element of the Reflection pieces made them widely popular as this had previously been a privilege reserved only for the very wealthy. Pieces were also designed for many icons and Hollywood actresses such as Joan Crawford and Marlene Dietrich. Works from the Reflection series often make an appearance on the American market but it is rare to find them in Paris.