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14 September 2009  |  Jewelry & Watches   |  Article

Master and Muse: René Lalique and Sarah Bernhardt

Beyond her acting talents, French stage actress Sarah Bernhardt was famous for amassing a substantial jewelry collection. She purchased pieces in Paris and also collected objects on her international tours. Though her vast jewelry collection encompassed a wide range of styles, Bernhardt is widely-regarded as having an important influence on Art Nouveau jewelry. 

French Art Nouveau jeweler René Lalique, known for his affinity for dramatic jewelry, attracted the attention of Sarah Bernhardt. For her 1894 production of Théodora, Lalique created a magnificent crown with snakes, griffins and shoulder-length handing beads. For La Princesse Lointaine, in 1895, Lalique is believed to have made Bernhardt’s crown and sapphire ring. To celebrate Bernhardt’s 29 years in the theater, Lalique designed a gold commemorative medal that depicted her profile in high relief.

Edmond Rostand, author of La Princesse Lointaine, gave Sarah Bernhardt a copy of the text bound in beige leather with a diamond and citrine lily on the cover.  The lily echoed the crown she wore in the play. The binding has a scrolling clasp of garnets, peridots, tourmalines, rose-cut diamonds and a cabochon amethyst. These unusual stones were chosen for their muted colors, popular in the late 19th century. Bernhardt’s motto, “Quand Même” (“In Spite Of”), encloses her entwined initials in gold letters on the back. Rostand showed his devotion to her in a dedicatory poem, handwritten on the front page of the book.

Related Sale
Sale 2390
Jewels and Objects D'Art: A Superb Collection
21 October 2009
Paris


Related Departments
Jewelry

Related Artists
René Lalique

Keywords
Jewelry
René Lalique




AN ART NOUVEAU DIAMOND, AMETHYST AND ENAMEL PENDANT NECKLACE OF SARAH BERNHARDT
by René Lalique
With a leather-bound book
Estimate: $400,000 - $600,000