FEATURES ARCHIVE

In the Creative Design section of our Paris Jewels sale, we see a tightly curated group of lots which break with traditional jewellery design displaying entirely innovative ideas and techniques. Many of the designers are renowned artists in other fields who have adapted their skills and methods to create inspired artistic jewellery.

Botanically inspired
Claude Lalanne (b. 1924)
Claude Lalanne’s work as a designer has always been inspired by botanical themes with a charming oblivion for the division between fine and decorative art. Her chair designs are magical forms tangled with golden draping leaves and twisted branches. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that this wonderful “Marie” bracelet should be such a beautifully concentrated expression of nature.

Lacquer glamour
Jean Dunand (1877-1942)
Dunand started out his career as a metalworker, what the French call a Dinandier. Amongst his creations was a stunning pair of monumental vases which inspired Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé to start collecting Art Deco objects. Renowned for his exquisite use of lacquers and enamels, this Art Deco necklace and bracelet by Jean Dunand does not fail to impress.

Mechanically inspired
Jean Desprès (1889-1980)
Following an apprenticeship as a goldsmith, Jean Desprès spent the duration of World War I working in an aircraft factory. His exposure to mechanics and intricate engineering is a visible influence in the work to be offered and in many of his later creations. Working mainly with gold and silver, Desprès created a new avant-garde style of jewellery using modern dynamic forms inspired by Cubism and mechanical objects.

Metal poetry
Line Vautrin (1913-1997)
Fascinated by her father’s foundry as a little girl, Line Vautrin acquired her basic gilding and engraving skills at an early age and by fifteen she was producing and selling her own line of jewellery. She would bill her ‘clients’ on her father’s letterheads as she was legally too young to have her own business.Vautrin quickly gained the confidence and freedom to create a prolific range of costume jewellery, mirrors, boxes and other decorative objects. She was passionate about gilt bronze and would often inscribe her jewellery with words of poetry and give them titles like works of art. “Pêche miraculeuse” is an excellent example of her poetic and playful approach to design. Vautrin’s significant contribution to this field earned her the nickname ‘poet of metal’.