FEATURES ARCHIVE

One of the greatest pleasures when dealing with wine collectors who become sellers is to spend time with the individuals concerned and learn a little about their collecting preferences, why they collect, what they collect – and sometimes why they sell.

During recent weeks, a team of specialists from the Wine Department in London has been making a number of visits to a cellar in Holland. The collection numbers around 50,000 bottles – no inventory exists so we won’t know for sure till our check is complete – and the specialist visits continue at the time of writing!

The cellar contains all the greats – Bordeaux, of course, plus substantial ranges from the regions of Rhone, Alsace, Germany, Australia and many other iconic New World classics, all in some quantity and variety as befits the collection of one of the Netherland’s greatest connoisseurs. The real strength and depth, however, lies somewhat unusually in the wines of Burgundy – red and white. Over a period of nearly two decades, the individual has made numerous visits to Burgundy and established strong links with some of the greatest and most sought-after producers – from the celebrated to the more discreet.

Naturally, we agreed to a dinner during our most recent visit, when it would be possible to sample a range of such wines from the collection, augmented by one or two of our own bottles in the spirit of sharing. We were therefore fortunate to find ourselves seated one fine summer evening at a private table at the ‘Het Savarijn’ restaurant in Nijmegen under the watchful eye of longtime proprietor Nic van Lokven, for what promised to be a convivial evening of conversation, wine and food. What followed was perhaps one of the finest and most memorable meals that I can recall in over 25 years of drinking and fine dining – a night when all the combinations worked out perfectly and all the wines (well most of them) tasted incomparable.

Our culinary journey began with a salad of marinated white asparagus and pastrami, accompanied by a Sancerre, Mont Damnes 2000 from Francois Cotat – cool and still fresh but with the exceptional depth and complexity that comes to good Sauvignon Blanc with 9 years of maturation – quite a revelation and our first wine!

Next, a most wonderful dish of ragout of lobster with sweetbread and champignons, topped with a little Gruyere cheese – the Chassagne Montrachet, Les Ruchottes 2003 from Ramonet was the perfect partner – rich and fairly hefty of course but with more acidity than expected and a sublime concentration.

Then, a perfectly roasted quail with more asparagus and sea-aster complimented by Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers 1996 from Serafin – followed by tranches of opulent, smoked Barbary duck breasts served with turnip tops and poultry sauce paired with a particularly delicious bottle of Sassicaia 1983.

The carre of lamb, cooked to perfection with grilled fondant potatoes and glazed field mushrooms, was served alongside two reds. First, Petit-Village 1990 - slightly closed and a little coarse but improving with air and secondly, Grand-Puy-Lacoste 1986 - a real classic Pauillac, greatly underrated - wonderful now and improving in the future.

The Chateaubriand with summer vegetables was served with two more esoteric bottles – Caymus Special Selection 1992 and Hermitage, Monier de la Sizeranne 1991 from Chapoutier. Both were perfection – the Caymus more explosive and concentrated than the almost elegant and refined Rhone – yet the comparison and contrast seemed to make each wine more enjoyable than either would have been tasted individually.

Next and penultimately was a concession to half the table representing the London contingent and slipped in neatly before desserts; ripe Stilton and Port – Offley Boa Vista 1975 – lean and still sweet enough and served slightly cool. The debate among ourselves regarding the cheese, dessert and which wine when will continue, but for us on the night the Port and cheese worked perfectly before we sampled a range of desserts including Parfait of star anis with compote and spring roll of apricots accompanied by fresh strawberries, raspberries and blackberries. And, to finish the night, the desserts were paired with one of my favourite Sauternes, the wonderful Chateau Raymond-Lafon 1983.

Wines from this exceptional private cellar will feature across a range of sale sites at Christie’s in the coming months, including London and Hong Kong and a unique single owner sale in Amsterdam on November 1. Perhaps you will acquire some of these fantastic wines for your collection – and then you can plan your own ‘night to remember’.