FEATURES ARCHIVE

From Bordeaux to Burgundy, Anthony Hanson, Master of Wine, has spent his life exploring the people and traditions behind the French wine industry. En route to Burgundy for the September harvest, he stopped to talk to Eva-Maria Dimitriadis about blind tastings, hitchhiking, and 2009 predictions.

How did you come to be a Burgundy expert?
Well, I moved to France when I was 19 to learn the language. I got a job in Bordeaux picking grapes and pushing barrels.After that I worked in Champagne showing visitors around the vineyards. And finally I ended up in Burgundy, where I was once again picking grapes and working in the cellars; this time it ended with a more permanent job. During my early experiences in Burgundy I realised that nobody had yet written a book which described the people of the region.The soil, the climate, the wine perhaps… but not the people.They are totally vital to the success of the wine production. I was in my early 20s at the time and started to work on the first edition of my book, Burgundy.

So was that the first time you came across the Hospices de Beaune auctions?
Well actually, not long after my move to France, I hitchhiked to Beaune from Grenoble, where I was studying at the time. I wanted to view the auction. So I suppose I made a full circle with stops in Bordeaux and Champagne before finally making it back to Burgundy.

What does it take to become a Master of Wine?
Great determination.To begin with, you need a lot of work experience.There are some things you can only learn on the job in the wine trade.You also need a supportive employer, someone who will allow you time for reading, tastings, and above all discussion. You need a good friend who is willing to help you assemble blind tastings.You are expected to describe wines accurately as well as estimate values and perhaps identify grape varieties or origin – not just for classic European wines but also for New World wines which now hold a significant portion of the market. It takes a lot of practice (and rather a lot of funds) to acquire these skills.The final exam consists of several written papers on viticulture, winemaking, and business, with three practical, blind tasting sessions.

Describe your day to day activities during the harvest season.
I will spend the morning with Roland Masse, the wine-maker at the Hospices de Beaune.We will visit three or four growers picking grapes that morning and follow them back to the vat house.The grapes are brought to the sorting tables, each manned by a team of around ten people who eliminate unripe or rotten grapes from the moving carpet; they get rid of anything that is less than perfect. I join them at the sorting tables for a while to observe the quality of the produce. In the afternoon I visit some of the other organic pickers to see how they harvest.There is a very friendly competition amongst the best estates in Burgundy.They share their experiences and insights in a collegiate way.

Do you think 2009 will be a good vintage?
Absolutely.The harvest this year has been excellent.August was hot and sunny with enough rain but not too much.The 2009 picking started on Monday, 7 September, and the main harvest continued for about 10 days.The wines this year will be wonderful across the board.After what has been a fairly uncertain year in many respects, this Burgundy vintage is certainly a promising light at the end of the tunnel.

If you were to buy two barrels from the forthcoming sale, which cuvées would you choose?Is it too soon to tell?
It’s too early to tell which villages will be the most successful.At this stage it is looking very healthy across the board. I would probably go for a Volnay, a Pommard or a Beaune from the reds. Speaking for white wines I think the Meursault and greater whites will be splendid. Ask me again in three to four weeks!