FEATURES ARCHIVE

Where does your passion for fashion come from?
Going to school in Germany I was taught how to knit and sew very thoroughly from an early age. Watching Sunday afternoon movies starring Greta Garbo and Katherine Hepburn in wonderful 1930s and 1940s couture was also an early interest. Later on, I was impressed by the Victoria and Albert Museum’s ground-breaking Street Style exhibition in the late 1980s; I came away inspired to start our own Street Fashion sales. I was hooked.

What is it about a piece that makes you excited?
The turning head factor! Whether 17th or 20th century, it’s got to grab you.

What is it about this sale that really does justice to the history of style?
It’s a journey through fashion and time. We have costume from Stanford Hall, which includes a gentleman’s night cap from the 1600s and a dressing gown from 1700, to Biba boots, Bill Gibb, Ossie Clark, early Galliano and Chanel – from the Stuarts to Swinging London. Even a piece from Coco Chanel’s own wardrobe has come back to us again after we sold it in the sale of Madmoiselle’s personal wardrobe in 1978.

This sale offers an incredible Anne Bullitt collection. What is your favourite piece from this collection?
The polka dot dress. It has an amazing 1870s style bustle incorporated into a 1950s Balenciaga. It’s also very current. Today’s catwalks reflect what does well at auction. Although, Bullitt’s 19 inch waist means that ‘wearable’ is not really the correct adjective here.

Does the previous owner of a piece often dictate its value?
With someone like Bullitt or Coco Chanel, of course it plays a big part. Both lived life to the full. Anne Bullitt, even four husbands later never compromised on fashion. I like the outrageous; I’m not really interested in the simply ‘well dressed’. Worthy but dull doesn’t really inspire me.

How useful do you think collections such as this are to historical archives?
They are a great transporter – nothing takes you back quicker to the 17th century than imagining a handsome gentleman wearing a nightcap from 1620, settling down in front of the fire with a good book and a pipe of tobacco. They are an insight into how people lived, their activities and their status. They are readable to people, allowing them to get into the period.

Who do you think has fashion icon status in today’s media? Who do you imagine might sell in years to come?
The problem is people don’t buy couture in the same way these days. Celebrity has changed, not that many clothes are made to measure anymore. Famous people wear Balenciaga one day and Dior the next. People don’t like to be quite as predictable; therefore you don’t get whole collections by the same designer for one star, which is what makes this sale is so special. Isabella Blow is someone who created her own style, supporting new and outrageous talent wherever she found it. I would like to have a look into Victoria Beckham’s wardrobe one day. And I think Julia Roberts really knows how to dress!

If you had to live in one era for the love of the clothes, which would it be?
The 1790s. Stylish, focused on cut, yet harking back to ancient Greece. I don’t care if it is impractical. Although, I would prefer not to experience the French Revolution first hand!

Your wardrobe is burning, what do you save?
My Issey Miyake. A long puckered shibori dyed sheath dress that makes you look and feel like a mermaid.