Designed for American boxer Gene Tunney by Cartier and produced by the Lavavre workshop
Hans Nadelhoffer, Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., New York, 1984, page 21
A. Kenneth Snowman, The Master Jewelers, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., New York, 1990, page 193
Retrospective Louis Cartier: Masterworks of Art Deco, The Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Los Angeles, 1982, exhibition catalogue, no. 32
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Louis Cartier used the panther as the House symbol in 1914. He hiered the illustrator, George Barbier, to design aigrettes and feather jewelry, but few were ever made. However, Barbier did produce the design for the firm's advertising logo: a black panther with a jeweled collar reclining by a standing lady, bedecked in pearls. In 1915, Pierre Cartier had ordered for his young American wife the first of the panther jewels, a diamond chatelaine watch spotted with black onyx dots. Throughout the 1920's and 30's, an assortment of panther pieces were made in jewels, boxes and objets.