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    Sale 2121

    RARE JEWELS AND GEMSTONES: THE EYE OF A CONNOISSEUR(CANCEL)

    15 April 2008, New York, Rockefeller Plaza

  • Lot 1057

    A FINE ART DECO DIAMOND, ENAMEL AND AGATE BROOCH, BY CARTIER

    Estimate

    A FINE ART DECO DIAMOND, ENAMEL AND AGATE BROOCH, BY CARTIER
    The sculpted rose-cut diamond panther, with black enamel spots, reclining on an agate and onyx platform, mounted in platinum, circa 1928, with French assay marks
    Signed Cartier, Paris


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    Provenance

    Designed for American boxer Gene Tunney by Cartier and produced by the Lavavre workshop


    Literature

    Hans Nadelhoffer, Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., New York, 1984, page 21

    A. Kenneth Snowman, The Master Jewelers, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., New York, 1990, page 193


    Exhibited

    Retrospective Louis Cartier: Masterworks of Art Deco, The Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Los Angeles, 1982, exhibition catalogue, no. 32


    Post Lot Text

    Louis Cartier used the panther as the House symbol in 1914. He hiered the illustrator, George Barbier, to design aigrettes and feather jewelry, but few were ever made. However, Barbier did produce the design for the firm's advertising logo: a black panther with a jeweled collar reclining by a standing lady, bedecked in pearls. In 1915, Pierre Cartier had ordered for his young American wife the first of the panther jewels, a diamond chatelaine watch spotted with black onyx dots. Throughout the 1920's and 30's, an assortment of panther pieces were made in jewels, boxes and objets.