• Jewels and Watches: The Dubai  auction at Christies

    Sale 7894

    Jewels and Watches: The Dubai Sale

    28 April 2010, Jumeirah Emirates Towers Hotel

  • Lot 129

    A HIGHLY UNUSUAL ENAMEL, DIAMOND AND EMERALD BRACELET, BY VICENTE GRACIA

    Price Realised  

    Estimate

    A HIGHLY UNUSUAL ENAMEL, DIAMOND AND EMERALD BRACELET, BY VICENTE GRACIA
    'Tribute to René Lalique'
    The wide four panel bracelet designed as a forest landscape, each panel depicting a different aspect of nature; the moon through the trees, clouds in the sky, snow on the trees, and fresh green growth from the dead forest, with multi-coloured enamel detail with marquise-cut emeralds weighing 3.09 carats of leaf design and brilliant-cut diamond accents weighing 9.13 carats, reverse side with fish motif, with original drawing and additional drawing referring to the meaning of each panel, in maker's presentation case, inner circumference 18.0cm
    With maker's mark for Gracia, engraved "Tribute to René Lalique"


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    This beautiful bracelet, designed by Vicente Gracia is his tribute to one of the greatest jewellery masters of all time, Rene Lalique.

    Rene Lalique (1860-1945) was the undisputed genius of Art Nouveau jewellery and arguably the greatest artist-jeweller ever known. A leader of the Art Nouveau movement, and instigator of an entirely new approach to jewellery, he was a man of exceptional talent and astonishing versatility. Undoubtedly, he helped to overturn the traditions of 19th century French jewellery design and manufacture, creating an entirely new means of expression for the jewellers art.

    By the 1890s Laliques gold work was becoming especially fluid and sculptural. Lalique was able to turn gold into a substance that seemed almost liquid, with constantly moving lines that suggested energy and growth. At this time, Lalique was adding more motifs from nature, concentrating on unusual aspects of plant structure. His gold work focused on the decay and rebirth of the natural world, often in conjunction with enamels, to convey the dynamic forces of organic life: curling leaves, rippling water, trailing branches, budding stems, gnarled and knotted roots of trees.

    Gracias tribute to Lalique, takes its inspiration from a dog collar style necklace that Lalique produced in 1898 which depicts a wooded landscape in yellow gold, with touches of green enamel leaves and a background made of carved rippling opal to form a serene lake view.

    However, Gracias interpretation of Laliques idea is unmistakably different and very recognisable as the work of

    Vicente Gracia. A little more impressionistic in its artistic handling, there is something about Gracias innocent charm

    and the generous proportions of the bracelet, that are the trade mark of this exceptional Spanish designer.