• Christies auction house James Christie logo

    Sale 1350

    Magnificent Jewels

    15 November 2007, Geneva

  • Lot 351

    A PAIR OF EXQUISITE TOURMALINE AND DIAMOND EAR CLIPS, BY JAR

    Price Realised  

    Estimate

    A PAIR OF EXQUISITE TOURMALINE AND DIAMOND EAR CLIPS, BY JAR
    Each designed as a pavé-set Paraïba tourmaline shield, centering upon a cushion-shaped green tourmaline, to the single-cut diamond border, made in 1995, 2.8 cm long, with French assay marks for platinum and gold, in a JAR pink leather case
    Signed JAR Paris


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    JAR


    Joel Arthur Rosenthal, also known as JAR, was born in New York City. Undoubtedly the most influential contemporary jewellery designer in the world, he has been referred to as the Fabergé of the late twentieth century, as well as being compared to Cartier and Lalique. It is, however, more appropriate to applaud his individual style and the extraordinary jewels and objects that he creates. What defines JAR's work is his superior craftsmanship, evocative of the quality of jewels in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries; his bold sens of proportion, often resulting in comparatively sculptural objects; and his propensity for incorporating shallow and unusual gemstones into his pieces, resulting in a vivid sense of movement and light. His attention to detail is overwhelming, and a single jewel can lead to years of meticulous work before completion. Rosenthal's skill in blending colours of gemstones is legendary. He has had two exhibitions, the first in New York in 1984, and a major retrospective exhibition held at Somerset House in London in 2002-2003. During the latter, four hundred pieces were viewed by visitors using special torches in a darkened environment. The daring range of colours twinkling by night light, and the wildly imaginative designs were, for many, a deeply moving experience. His jewels are often created around exceptional gemstones and Rosenthal will spend years searching for the right stones, indeed, he is famous for matching unique pairs of gems and for re-setting rare stones from much older pieces of jewellery.
    Rosenthal studied art history at Harvard and, after college, worked in the film industry, and then with Bulgari. In 1977, he opened a shop in Place Vendôme with Swiss business partner, Pierre Jeannet. Rosenthal is not a prolific designer, which is why when jewels such as these come onto the open market; it is not just another jewellery sale but also an exciting event.




    For other pieces of JAR in the sale, please see lot 365 and 366





    Add few lines on Paraiba tourmalines

    Pre-Lot Text

    Emma Checkley, Head of the Jewellery Department, Paris
    'Uniqueness of design, each made only once, superior craftsmanship, and a singular sense of colour, these are the hallmarks of JAR Jewels. Each jewel he creates reflects the spirit and personality of the individual who it is commissioned for, yet these earrings have universal appeal. The 'perfect' blue Paraïba tourmalines evocative of crystal waters and summer skies will subtly illuminate the face of any women who wears them.'