• Rare Jewels and Objets d'Art:  auction at Christies

    Sale 2390

    Rare Jewels and Objets d'Art: A Superb Collection

    21 October 2009, New York, Rockefeller Plaza

  • Lot 1115

    A SET OF ART DECO EBONY AND CHROME JEWELRY, BY JEAN FOUQUET

    Price Realised  

    A SET OF ART DECO EBONY AND CHROME JEWELRY, BY JEAN FOUQUET
    Comprising a necklace, designed as a polished ebony torque, set with four articulated chrome discs, mounted in 18k gold; and a bracelet, designed as an ebony bangle, inlaid with two chrome bands, circa 1931, necklace 16½ ins., bracelet 2½ ins. diameter, necklace with French assay marks and maker's marks
    Each signed Jean Fouquet, bracelet no. 23454 (2)


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    Jean Fouquet (1899-1994) was at the center of the Modernist movement in Paris at the time of the 1925 Exposition. When he joined his father Georges Fouquet at the family firm, he became a leading jewelry designer and critic in the Art Deco movement. In his 1931 book Jewelry and Gold, he wrote that "jewelry and gold pieces must be works of art while also responding to the same needs as industrial objects."
    This set of ebony and chrome jewlery exemplifies the African-inspired designs of the late Art Deco movement. Ebony and disks are common motifs in African jewelry, but the shiny chrome is a novel medium. The bracelet's design was inspired by the 1920s socialite Nancy Cunard, whose trademark was an armful of wide African-inspired bangles.

    Exhibited

    Masterpieces of 20th Century Jewelry, The Forbes Galleries, New York, 20 September - 31 December 2006, California Palace of the Legion of Honor, San Francisco, 10 February - 10 June 2007, exhibition catalogue page 83

    Art Deco 1910-1939, Victoria & Albert Museum, London, 27 March - 20 July 2003, Royal Ontario Museum, 15 September 2003 - 4 January 2004, California Palace of the Legion of Honor, San Francisco, 3 March - 5 July 2004, Museum of Fine Arts Boston, 19 September 2004 - 9 January 2005

    L'Arte del Gioiello e il Gioiello D'Artista dal'900 AD Oggi, Museo degli Argenti, Florence, Italy, 10 March - 10 June 2001, page 162, no. 55

    Bijoux Fouquet, 1860-1960, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris, 9 December 1983 - 15 April 1984, Museum Bellerive, Zurich, 23 May - 12 August 1984, exhibition catalogue pages 140 (necklace) and 172 (bracelet)