• Jewels: The New York Sale, wit auction at Christies

    Sale 2306

    Jewels: The New York Sale, with The Catherine the Great Emerald Brooch and The Emperor Maximilian Diamond

    22 April 2010, New York, Rockefeller Plaza

  • Lot 203

    AN ART DECO RUBY, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL BROOCH

    Price Realised  

    Estimate

    AN ART DECO RUBY, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL BROOCH
    Designed as a circular, single and baguette-cut diamond magpie bird, with a carved ruby wing, ruby eye and black enamel beak, wearing a baguette-cut diamond, buff-top ruby and black enamel top hat and carrying a black enamel cane, extending diamond and buff-top ruby tail feathers, mounted in platinum, circa 1925
    Numbered 1624


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    Post Lot Text

    Founded in New York in 1888, Udall & Ballou was one of the finest New York jewelers of the early 20th century. Based on Fifth Avenue and 57th Street, they also advertised locations in Palm Beach, Newport and Paris. By the end of the 1920s they had become one of the most prosperous firms of the period, and were recognised in the 1930s specifically for floral, architectural and abstract designs, as well as retailing watches. During World War II, however, their short-lived but prestigious production came to an end due to the difficult financial situation.

    Their style was noticeably one of bold American interpretations of Parisian designs and indeed the fanciful concept of the magpie dressed to go to the ball, 'la pie va au bal,' was also seen in Cartier jewels at the time. Yet the design perfectly expresses the successful combination of the French with the American, also recalling the whimsical tradition of this period of animal jewels of other American jewelers such as Raymond Yard.