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    Sale 2108

    The Imperial Wardrobe: Fine Chinese Costume And Textiles From The Linda Wrigglesworth Collection

    19 March 2008, New York, Rockefeller Plaza

  • Lot 88

    A RARE EMBROIDERED RED SATIN HAN CHINESE WOMAN'S COAT, MANGAO

    JIAQING PERIOD (1796-1820)

    Price Realised  

    Estimate

    A RARE EMBROIDERED RED SATIN HAN CHINESE WOMAN'S COAT, MANGAO
    JIAQING PERIOD (1796-1820)
    The red silk satin worked in horizontally couched gold-wrapped thread and fine Peking knot with four-clawed dragons pursuing flaming pearls amidst lingzhi-shaped clouds, bats and flowers above a terrestrial diagram and lishui stripe and continuing on the wide sleeves, the rolling waves topped by froth worked in silver-wrapped thread and pearls in multicolored Peking knot
    43 in. (109.2 cm.) long x 82 in. (208.3 cm.) across


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    The mangao or 'dragon' jacket was based on Ming dynasty styles of dress, with wide sleeves. They continued to be worn by Han Chinese women, who did not wear the Manchu robes of the succeeding Qing dynasty. This example is unusual as it dates from the late 18th - early 19th century.
    Red is associated with family celebrations, especially weddings, births and birthdays, which is most appropriate as the word for red, fu, is a pun on the word for happiness.
    Compare the similar wedding robe from the Hong Kong Museum of Art, illustrated by V.M. Garrett, Chinese Clothing: An Illustrated Guide, New York, 1994, pl. 37.

    Provenance

    Private American collection.


    Literature

    V. Garrett, Chinese Dress, Tokyo/Rutland, Vermont/Singapore, 2007, p. 99, fig. 187.