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    Sale 1413

    Rare Watches Including Important Private Collections

    16 May 2016, Geneva

  • Lot 121

    Breguet, No. 1285 “montre à cadran tournant portant les heures sautantes dans un guichet”. A fine and very rare 18K white gold and osmium openface jumping and wandering hour keyless lever dress watch with original Breguet green morocco box no. 1285

    SIGNED BREGUET, NO. 1285, SOLD ON 25 AUGUST 1926 TO JEAN DOLLFUS

    Price Realised  

    Estimate

    Breguet, No. 1285 “montre à cadran tournant portant les heures sautantes dans un guichet”. A fine and very rare 18K white gold and osmium openface jumping and wandering hour keyless lever dress watch with original Breguet green morocco box no. 1285
    Signed Breguet, No. 1285, sold on 25 August 1926 to Jean Dollfus
    Nickel-finished lever movement, 19 jewels, bimetallic compensation balance, two-tone silvered matte dial, outer Arabic minute ring, wandering central disc with engine-turned arrow, aperture for the jumping Arabic hours, plain circular Cubist case, snap on back, case and movement numbered, dial signed
    43 mm. diam.


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    With Breguet Certificate No. 3895 dated 14 April 1991 confirming the sale of this watch in 18K white gold "cubist" case and with the original green morocco box to Jean Dollfus on 25 August 1926. According to the Archives, the case is in fact Osmium, another noteworthy and exceedingly rare feature, a metal alloy largely composed of gold, its colour resembling platinum. Breguet used this material in an exceedingly small number of watches only, predominantly in the late 1920s.

    The present watch is distinguished by its very good original overall condition, original numbered box and interesting provenance.

    This "heures sautantes" or jumping hour watch is a fine specimen of this epitome of Art Deco style, made by Breguet from around 1927 until 1945 both as a pocket and as a wristwatch, the system was patented by the Swiss watchmaker Robert Cart around 1925.

    The first jump hour pocket watches appeared in the early 19th century but became particularly fashionable during the Art Deco period. Their simplicist layout, displaying the actual hour and minutes and, more rarely, the calendar indications through small apertures, harmonized perfectly with the purely decorative Art Deco style, seen as elegant, functional, and ultra-modern. During the "Roaring Twenties", pocket and wristwatches fitted with this unusual display were made by the most eminent makers, notably Breguet, Audemars Piguet, Cartier and Patek Philippe.

    Jean and Louis Dollfus
    Jean-Jacques or Jean Dollfus and his brother Louis were descendants of the prominent Dollfus family of industrialists and founders of a textile manufacture specialized in needlework (today DMC Dollfus Mieg & Cie., originally founded in 1746 in Mulhouse, France).
    Jean was born in Paris in 1884, Louis in 1901, the brothers attended the Ecole Alsacienne in Paris. Both were passionate watch collectors and regular clients of Breguet, their collections included mostly highly complicated pocket watches with the exception of a unique wristwatch sold in this saleroom on 16 May 2011.

    Another example of this model is illustrated in Breguet - Watchmakers Since 1775 by Emmanuel Breguet, p. 316.

    Pre-Lot Text

    THE PROPERTY OF A GENTLEMAN