• IMPORTANT WATCHES Including A  auction at Christies

    Sale 1369

    IMPORTANT WATCHES Including A CONNOISSEUR'S VISION

    16 November 2009, Geneva

  • Lot 199

    Cartier. A very fine, rare and attractive 18K gold and diamond-set wristwatch with bracelet

    CARTIER, SWISS, CASE SIGNED EUROPEAN WATCH AND CLOCK CO., INC., STAMPED LC FOR LOUIS CARTIER AND NUMBERED 552'969, MOVEMENT SIGNED EUROPEAN WATCH AND CLOCK CO., INC., NO. 376'171, CIRCA 1960

    Price Realised  

    Cartier. A very fine, rare and attractive 18K gold and diamond-set wristwatch with bracelet
    Cartier, Swiss, case signed European Watch and Clock Co., Inc., stamped LC for Louis Cartier and numbered 552'969, movement signed European Watch and Clock Co., Inc., no. 376'171, circa 1960
    Circular nickel-finished lever movement, 18 jewels, bimetallic compensation balance, silvered matte dial, circular case, large skeletonized bezel with box-set baguette-cut diamond hour markers, octagonal-shaped winding crown, back secured by two screws, cylindrical t-lugs, 18K gold Cartier 15-row laminated mesh bracelet, 18K pink gold Cartier deployant clasp stamped GF for Gay Frères, case signed European Watch and Clock Co., Inc., stamped LC and numbered, dial signed Cartier, movement signed European Watch and Clock Co., Inc.
    32 mm. diam. & 170 mm. overall length


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    The revival of gold watches in round cases in the mid 1940s inspired Cartier to design models completely different from the classical "Cartier" style. Amongst these post war creations figured the famous "Helm" watch, the name derived from its design resembling a ship's wheel.

    The Helm model was made in various versions, comprising dress watches and wristwatches, varying in layout and sizes, the majority cased in yellow gold. Celebrities such as Barbara Hutton and the Maharajah of Kapurthala owned examples of this very popular model.

    The present watch is amongst the rarest types of the "Helm" wristwatch, attractively combining a case of unusually massive design for this model with a diamond-set bezel and a gold bracelet. Interestingly, the deployant clasp is also stamped GF for Gay Frères in Geneva, renowned for their high quality bracelets supplied to the most important watch manufacturers. Considering the time of creation of this highly attractive wristwatch, it is furthermore of comparatively large size and in beautiful, original overall condition. Purchased decades ago by the grandfather of the present owner, it is fresh to the market and has always been treated with respect.

    For different examples of the "Helm" model see The Cartier Collection - Timepieces, Editions Flammarion, pp. 395 - 397.