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    Sale 1353

    Important Pocketwatches and Wristwatches

    12 May 2008, Geneva

  • Lot 245

    Cartier. A very fine, rare and attractive platinum and diamond-set wristwatch with bracelet

    SIGNED CARTIER, CASE STAMPED EJ FOR EDMOND JAEGER AND NUMBERED 41136, MOVEMENT SIGNED EUROPEAN WATCH AND CLOCK CO., INC., NO. 375'499, MANUFACTURED IN 1956

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    Estimate

    Cartier. A very fine, rare and attractive platinum and diamond-set wristwatch with bracelet
    Signed Cartier, case stamped EJ for Edmond Jaeger and numbered 41136, movement signed European Watch and Clock Co., Inc., no. 375'499, manufactured in 1956
    With circular nickel-finished lever movement, 18 jewels, bimetallic compensation balance, the cream-coloured dial with black painted baton numerals, in circular case, the skeletonized bezel with box-set baguette-cut diamond hour markers, octagonal-shaped winding crown, snap on back, cylindrical t-lugs, articulated satin-finished platinum Cartier seven row brick link bracelet, hidden platinum Cartier deployant clasp stamped EJ for Edmond Jaeger and numbered 13663, case stamped EJ and numbered, dial signed Cartier, movement signed European Watch and Clock Co., Inc.
    30 mm. diam. & 170 mm. overall length


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    Accompanied by Cartier Certificate of Authenticity No. GE2007-227 dated 28 November 2007 confirming the sale of the present watch with platinum bracelet by Cartier Paris in 1956.

    The revival of gold watches in round cases in the mid 1940s inspired Cartier to design models completely different from the classical "Cartier" style. Amongst these post war creations figured the famous "Helm" watch, the name derived from its design resembling a ship's wheel.

    The Helm model was made in various versions, comprising dress watches and wristwatches, varying in layout and sizes, the majority however cased in yellow gold. Celebrities such as Barbara Hutton and the Maharajah of Kapurthala owned examples of this very popular model.

    The present watch is one of the rarest types of the "Helm" wristwatch ever made, combining a platinum case with a diamond-set bezel and a platinum bracelet, sold at Cartier Paris in 1956 as confirmed by the Certificate of Authenticity. Considering the time of creation of this highly attractive wristwatch, it is furthermore of comparatively large size and in beautiful, original overall condition.

    Cartier
    Founded by Louis-François Cartier in Paris in 1847, the name Cartier has always been a synonym for elegance and beauty. It was also Louis Cartier who, in the early 1900s, was the first jeweller to create platinum jewellery which he used in his "Garland" creations and to enhance the brilliance of diamonds. Cartier's unrivalled skill in working with platinum contributed to its reputation of "the Jeweller of Kings and the King of Jewellers".

    Today more than ever, platinum, the rarest of all precious metals and its unique white lustre, is the favourite metal of many collectors.


    For examples of the "Helm" watch see The Cartier Collection - Timepieces, Editions Flammarion, pp. 395-397.