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    Sale 1357

    Important Watches

    17 November 2008, Geneva

  • Lot 370

    Cartier. An extremely fine and rare 18K white gold and sapphire-set automatic wristwatch with one minute tourbillon, power reserve and bracelet

    SIGNED CARTIER, AUTOMATIC, DIABOLO MODEL, CASE NOS. T 1102 AND 676'948, CIRCA 1990

    Price Realised  

    Cartier. An extremely fine and rare 18K white gold and sapphire-set automatic wristwatch with one minute tourbillon, power reserve and bracelet
    Signed Cartier, Automatic, Diabolo model, case nos. T 1102 and 676'948, circa 1990
    Cartier cal. 102 finely pierced and engraved lever movement, 39 jewels, pierced and engraved white gold rotor, engine-turned silvered dial, Roman numerals, secret signature at X, blued steel moon-style hands, three armed polished steel tourbillon carriage combined with constant seconds visible through a glazed aperture to 6 o'clock, fan-shaped sector for the 64 hour power reserve to 12 o'clock, circular case, cabochon sapphire-set crown, calibré-cut sapphire-set bezel, glazed display back secured by eight screws, slender downturned lugs set with cabochon sapphires to all sides, 18K white gold Cartier bracelet set with six rows of calibré-cut sapphires, calibré-cut sapphires to the sides, 18K white gold hidden clasp numbered 676'948, case, dial and movement signed
    37 mm. diam.


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    Most certainly part of an exceedingly small series of such fully sapphire-set watches possibly made to special order, the present watch impresses with a total of approximately 385 sapphires weighing between 50 and 60 carats.

    The setting of the sapphires is following Van Cleef & Arpels "invisibly set" technique, invented in Paris in the late 1920s. An icon of the Art Deco period, this style is enjoying enormous popularity still today. It originated from the desire of showing only the precious stones while hiding the mountings. By carving a groove in the side of the gem's pavilion and sliding it along rails of precious metal, setting gemstone next to gemstone, the metal is masked and the appearance of a ribbon of precious stones is given.

    The furthermore like new condition combined with a highly sophisticated, automatic tourbillon movement render this watch extremely appealing for the connoisseur of such fine timepieces.