Indian jewellery is renowned for its colour and intricate designs, incorporating precious gemstones, filigree work and enamelled surfaces. Rooted in centuries of tradition, these pieces blend regional techniques with ornate designs inspired by religion, royalty and nature.
The country’s rich culture of jewellery is partly due to the exceptional variety of minerals found there — from the diamonds of Golconda to rare Kashmir sapphires. Under the Mughal dynasty, which ruled India from 1526 to 1857, gemstones were transformed into earrings, necklaces, bangles, rings and jighas (turban ornaments). In 2019, the Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence auction at Christie's New York totalled US$109.2 million — the highest for any auction of Indian art and Mughal objects.
In more recent years, European gem-cutting influenced Indian jewellery designs, while Indian styles shaped Art Deco masterpieces by Cartier — a pair of emerald, natural pearl, ruby and diamond clips by the luxury house were sold by Christie's for USD$1.7 million in 2019.
A RARE AND FINE CALLIGRAPHIC MOTHER-OF-PEARL AND BLACK LAC VENEERED JEWELLERY BOX
PROBABLY GUJARAT, NORTH WEST INDIA, LATE 16TH CENTURY
A SERPENTINE AND ROCK-CRYSTAL FLYWHISK HANDLE
NORTH INDIA, HILT PROBABLY 19TH CENTURY