A MUGHAL PASHMINA WOOL MILLELFEUR LATTICE CARPET

Details
A MUGHAL PASHMINA WOOL MILLELFEUR LATTICE CARPET
NORTH INDIA, SECOND HALF 18TH CENTURY

The deep indigo field with an ogival lattice of serrated leaves forming panels densely filled with a variety of floral sprays and small polychrome small panels containing floral sprays, in a blood-red reciprocal triangular cusped arcaded border containing floral sprays between ivory meandering floral and minor mill-pattern stripes, areas of wear, particularly at one end, slight damage to selvage Approximately 10ft.4in. x 5ft.2in. (314cm. x 152cm.)

Warp: white cotton Z5S, considerably depressed, slightly undulating
Weft: 3 shoots blue cotton Z2S, first and third slightly undulating, second strongly undulating
Pile: very fine wool or goat-hair, Z4-5, dark blue Z3, asymmetrical open to the left, H6.5 x V6/cm.
Sides: main weft flat-woven around four additional warps, additional red weft, very fine wool or goat-hair, Z4, irregularly alternating returning around two or four additional warps
Ends: continuing the ground weave
Provenance
Acquired 9 August 1937 as an "ind. Teppich"
Literature
Alte Teppiche des 16.-18.Jahrhunderts der Firma L.Bernheimer, Munich, 1959, pl.108.
Exhibited
Persische Teppiche, Museum fr Kunst und Gewerbe, Hamburg Museum fr Kunsthandwerk, Frankfurt-am-Main, 1971, no.29, pp.72-73 (ill.).

Lot Essay

This carpet is one of a clearly defined group which use the very soft pashmina wool which comes from underbelly of the mountain goat of Ladakh and Tibet, usually knotted on a cotton or silk foundation. While the pile is remarkably soft, it takes colour in the same way as wool. The palette is similar in all the rugs of this group with the majority having an indigo field, as here. Particularly distinctive are the ivory guard stripes which can be seen on every member of the group.

The most remarkable example of the type is the Vanderbilt Mughal Lattice Carpet, sold in our New York Rooms, 10 April 1995, lot 100. That carpet is easily the largest of the group and has also survived in remarkable condition. In addition to this piece, there are approximately twelve other published examples. The most frequently encountered design is an overall millefleurs pattern, often with a small central medallion. One such example was sold in these Rooms 20 October 1992, lot 352 while others are in the Textile Museum,Washington (McMullan, Joseph V.: Islamic Carpets, New York, 1965, no.34), the Metropolitan Museum, New York (Dimand, M.S. and Mailey, Jean: Oriental Rugs in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 1973, nos.65 and 66, figs 141 and 142), and the Wher Collection (Thompson, Jon: Carpet Magic, exhibition catalogue, London, 1983, p. 146). The majority of the group have designs in the form of a prayer rug, the field ususally flanked by two half-cypress trees (for one example, together with a listing of the other prayer rugs, see Herrmann, E.: Seltene Orientteppiche X, Munich, 1987, pp.7-9). The present example is unusual in the strength of the lattice in the field. One example formerly in the McMullan Collection (op.cit., no.33) has a more rectilinear lattice.

While the Vanderbilt example has a design that is undoubtedly Indian, as do the two pieces mentioned above that are in the Metropolitan Museum, the majority of the group have evidence of Persian influence. This has led a number of authorities to attribute the group to Southern Persia, particularly on account of the similarity of the designs of the prayer rugs to the later products of the South Persian Qashqai tribal weavings. Yet the acknowledged earlier date of this group, coupled with the clear Indian design of some of the rugs must make an Indian origin more probable. A very damaged example of the group sold at Sotheby's (20 October 1993, lot 79) had flowers displaying a typical Indian use of pink outlines on red flowerheads.

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