A FINE SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND 18K GOLD FLOWERHEAD CLIP BROOCH, BY SCHLUMBERGER
A FINE SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND 18K GOLD FLOWERHEAD CLIP BROOCH, BY SCHLUMBERGER

Details
A FINE SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND 18K GOLD FLOWERHEAD CLIP BROOCH, BY SCHLUMBERGER
Of cinquefoil design, each petal with pav-set diamonds, oval-cut sapphires and raised stylised pinecone finials to the sapphire and diamond centre with flexible pistil cluster, mounted in platinum and 18K gold, 1950
Signed Schlumberger
Literature
Franco Maria Ricci and Jean Schlumberger, "Bijoux de Jean Schlumberger", 1976, page 127

Lot Essay

Jean Schlumberger (1907-1987) started his career in Paris with Elsa Schiaparelli for whom he designed costume jewellery. However, within a few years, and certainly by 1940, he was designing some amazing jewellery for a wide international clientele.

At this time, Schlumberger joined forces with Nicolas Bongard, a nephew of the fashion designer Paul Poiret. They opened a shop at 745 Fifth Avenue in New York, but after serving with the Free French in the war, they acquired new premises at 21 East 62nd Street in 1947.

For the next eight years, Schlumberger created a wonderful array of both jewels and objects that had a close affinity to nature, often characterised by their bold gold outline and detail.

After Tiffany was taken over in 1955, the new management wanted to adopt a different style for the firm and both Bongard and Schlumberger were pleased to be part of the new regime.

They had their own business within the Tiffany premises as well as a branch in Paris that was not under the Tiffany umbrella. Colour was all-important to Schlumberger and with Tiffany behind him, he could indulge in creating jewels containing stones that would normally be out of his range.

From Tiffany's point of view, they could offer their clients imaginative jewels that were regularly featured in the leading fashion magazines.

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