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Lot Essay
Cf. Judy Rudoe, "Cartier, 1900 - 1939", Harry N. Abrams Inc., Publishers, New York, 1997, page 330
During the Art Deco period, black and white was the most fashionable colour combination for women's evening wear. The great jewellers followed suit by creating jewels and accessories contrasting diamonds with onyx, black enamel or lacquer. Enamel is coloured glass or a combination of vitreous glazes as opposed to lacquer which is a natural resin from the sap of the Chinese lacquer tree. Applied in several layers, once dry, lacquer is water-resistant and can be carved, painted or inlaid. Although all three mediums created the desired bold effect, Cartier found that lacquer was preferable for many objects, specifically the bangles with diamond clips, as it does not chip or crack as easily as enamel.
Cartier introduced lacquered bracelets and rings in 1934. However, due to their relative fragility few of these jewels have survived. The following four lots exemplify the fine craftsmanship and elegance of this era.
During the Art Deco period, black and white was the most fashionable colour combination for women's evening wear. The great jewellers followed suit by creating jewels and accessories contrasting diamonds with onyx, black enamel or lacquer. Enamel is coloured glass or a combination of vitreous glazes as opposed to lacquer which is a natural resin from the sap of the Chinese lacquer tree. Applied in several layers, once dry, lacquer is water-resistant and can be carved, painted or inlaid. Although all three mediums created the desired bold effect, Cartier found that lacquer was preferable for many objects, specifically the bangles with diamond clips, as it does not chip or crack as easily as enamel.
Cartier introduced lacquered bracelets and rings in 1934. However, due to their relative fragility few of these jewels have survived. The following four lots exemplify the fine craftsmanship and elegance of this era.