The Property of
A LADY
An important sapphire and diamond clip brooch by Verdura
Details
An important sapphire and diamond clip brooch by Verdura
The central rectangular-cut sapphire weighing 65.08 carats to the pavé-set diamond bombé scroll surround, circa 1940, 6.3cm. high, in Verdura suede pouch
Signed by Verdura
The central rectangular-cut sapphire weighing 65.08 carats to the pavé-set diamond bombé scroll surround, circa 1940, 6.3cm. high, in Verdura suede pouch
Signed by Verdura
Provenance
Formerly in the collection of Mrs Frances Seymour Brokaw Fonda, who was married to Henry Fonda, the Hollywood star. They had two children, Jane and Peter.
Further details
VERDURA, A SICILIAN ARISTOCRAT
by
Vivienne Becker
The legendary sparkling wit and dynamic creativity of Fulco, Duke of Verdura, was perfectly encapsulated in his vibrantly original jewellery designs of the 1940s and '50s. A Sicilian aristocrat, brought up in faded grandeur, Verdura left his native Palermo in the 1920s to work with Chanel in Paris as a textile designer. Sharing her passion for history and baroque adornment, Verdura designed jewels for the couturier, most famously her enamelled and gem-set Maltese cross bangles that she wore all the time, one on each wrist. In the late 1930s, he arrived in New York, after a spell in Los Angeles, where, working in the jewellery trade, he had infiltrated Hollywood society, and befriended a colourful selection of movie celebrities. In New York, encouraged by Cole Porter, he set up his own business, designing jewellery for a ready-made glittering clientele from high society, showbusiness, European aristocracy and trend setters like Diana Vreeland. He was an immediate success. His style, opulent and exciting, new and fresh yet steeped in history, fairy tale and cultural references, was perfectly in tune with the spirit of the time. His jewels were big, bold and baroque, playful yet elegant, full of energy and colour, with their lashings of sunny yellow gold, and hugely intensely coloured gems. They were jewels for individuals and they transformed the way women perceived and wore their jewellery, as fantasy jewels, exquisitely made from wondrous materials. Original Verdura jewels, such as this example, particulary from the 1940s and '50s, the height of his creativity and popularity are sought after by connoisseurs, and rare since most are passed from generation to generation as treasured mementoes. This clip brings together Verdura's inimitable style, the teasing pavé diamond flames playing around the massive central gemstone, with an impeccable Hollywood provenance and the kind of celebrity glamour that was so much part of the Verdura legend.
VIVIENNE BECKER is a freelance journalist and jewellery historian.
by
Vivienne Becker
The legendary sparkling wit and dynamic creativity of Fulco, Duke of Verdura, was perfectly encapsulated in his vibrantly original jewellery designs of the 1940s and '50s. A Sicilian aristocrat, brought up in faded grandeur, Verdura left his native Palermo in the 1920s to work with Chanel in Paris as a textile designer. Sharing her passion for history and baroque adornment, Verdura designed jewels for the couturier, most famously her enamelled and gem-set Maltese cross bangles that she wore all the time, one on each wrist. In the late 1930s, he arrived in New York, after a spell in Los Angeles, where, working in the jewellery trade, he had infiltrated Hollywood society, and befriended a colourful selection of movie celebrities. In New York, encouraged by Cole Porter, he set up his own business, designing jewellery for a ready-made glittering clientele from high society, showbusiness, European aristocracy and trend setters like Diana Vreeland. He was an immediate success. His style, opulent and exciting, new and fresh yet steeped in history, fairy tale and cultural references, was perfectly in tune with the spirit of the time. His jewels were big, bold and baroque, playful yet elegant, full of energy and colour, with their lashings of sunny yellow gold, and hugely intensely coloured gems. They were jewels for individuals and they transformed the way women perceived and wore their jewellery, as fantasy jewels, exquisitely made from wondrous materials. Original Verdura jewels, such as this example, particulary from the 1940s and '50s, the height of his creativity and popularity are sought after by connoisseurs, and rare since most are passed from generation to generation as treasured mementoes. This clip brings together Verdura's inimitable style, the teasing pavé diamond flames playing around the massive central gemstone, with an impeccable Hollywood provenance and the kind of celebrity glamour that was so much part of the Verdura legend.
VIVIENNE BECKER is a freelance journalist and jewellery historian.