Details
BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND "KOKOSHNIK" TIARA
The tapered old European-cut diamond openwork band with navette-shaped design, enhanced by five old European-cut diamond graduated quatrefoil motifs, mounted in platinum
Signed by Cartier
No other jewelery form is more characteristic of Cartier up to the first World War than the tiara. Worn by royalty and the highest circles,it was a symbol of their privileged condition, it heightened women's status as well as their stature: The glittering aureole made her stand out from the crowd.
Cartier created several types of tiaras, most of which were influenced by classical prototypes. The bandeau, originally worn as a head band in earlier civilizations, is a simple ribbon shape. Winged tiaras traced their origins to the winged helmet, worn by Hermes, the Greek messenger god. This form became popular in the latter part of the ninetenth century in response to Richard Wagner's operas such as the Valkyrie.
Cartier began creating plant and floral tiaras after 1900, based on laurel and olive wreaths of classical antiquity, symbolizing victory. Wheat ear examples were reminiscent of Demeter, The Greek goddess of fertility and agriculture.
Around 1900 Cartier revived the Russian kokoshnik, modeled after a cock's comb and originally worn in traditional Russian folk dances. This tiara is placed around the head as a disc-shaped halo of a Byzantine Madonna. It is distinguished by a slight swelling at the center which accommodates a large gemstone or decorative motif.
The tapered old European-cut diamond openwork band with navette-shaped design, enhanced by five old European-cut diamond graduated quatrefoil motifs, mounted in platinum
Signed by Cartier
No other jewelery form is more characteristic of Cartier up to the first World War than the tiara. Worn by royalty and the highest circles,it was a symbol of their privileged condition, it heightened women's status as well as their stature: The glittering aureole made her stand out from the crowd.
Cartier created several types of tiaras, most of which were influenced by classical prototypes. The bandeau, originally worn as a head band in earlier civilizations, is a simple ribbon shape. Winged tiaras traced their origins to the winged helmet, worn by Hermes, the Greek messenger god. This form became popular in the latter part of the ninetenth century in response to Richard Wagner's operas such as the Valkyrie.
Cartier began creating plant and floral tiaras after 1900, based on laurel and olive wreaths of classical antiquity, symbolizing victory. Wheat ear examples were reminiscent of Demeter, The Greek goddess of fertility and agriculture.
Around 1900 Cartier revived the Russian kokoshnik, modeled after a cock's comb and originally worn in traditional Russian folk dances. This tiara is placed around the head as a disc-shaped halo of a Byzantine Madonna. It is distinguished by a slight swelling at the center which accommodates a large gemstone or decorative motif.