Details
ELEGANT INVISIBLY-SET RUBY AND DIAMOND TWIN LEAF BROOCH
One leaf of invisibly-set calibré-cut rubies, with circular-cut diamond border and vein, the other leaf of pavé-set diamonds, with a calibré-cut ruby vein, mounted in platinum, in a suede case
Signed by Van Cleef & Arpels, N. Y., No. 32959
The serti invisible (invisible setting) was invented in 1935 by Van Cleef & Arpels. In this revolutionary new technique, perfectly matched stones are set into special grooves which allow the stones to fit snugly next to one another so that no trace of metal remains visible. Stones were usually cut into a square shape but could take on different shapes such as trapeziums, triangles, or polygons in order to fit into certain spaces. The effect when held in the light is similar to a monochromatic stained glass window. In 1935, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced the Boule ring utilizing this technique and, within a year, they presented a variety of brooches including the double holly leaf executed similarly to the illustrated example with one leaf in rubies and the other, in brilliants.
One leaf of invisibly-set calibré-cut rubies, with circular-cut diamond border and vein, the other leaf of pavé-set diamonds, with a calibré-cut ruby vein, mounted in platinum, in a suede case
Signed by Van Cleef & Arpels, N. Y., No. 32959
The serti invisible (invisible setting) was invented in 1935 by Van Cleef & Arpels. In this revolutionary new technique, perfectly matched stones are set into special grooves which allow the stones to fit snugly next to one another so that no trace of metal remains visible. Stones were usually cut into a square shape but could take on different shapes such as trapeziums, triangles, or polygons in order to fit into certain spaces. The effect when held in the light is similar to a monochromatic stained glass window. In 1935, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced the Boule ring utilizing this technique and, within a year, they presented a variety of brooches including the double holly leaf executed similarly to the illustrated example with one leaf in rubies and the other, in brilliants.