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Nature's Gift
The role of the certificate in today's gem market is critical in understanding technical aspects of a stone's merits, or not, as the case maybe. However what it cannot do is convey the beauty and character of the "material" and the way the stone is cut. It can be argued that today sometimes too much importance is put on the gem report and "the market price" too quickly calculated.
A true diamantaire or connoisseur of colored stones understands rarity, and this is illustrated in many of the stones offered in this collection. Clearly, the most spectacular gem is the 74.89 carat D IF pear-shaped diamond (lot 403) which is the fourth largest of its type ever to be offered at auction. The outline is superb, slightly tapering, allowing itself to become a magnificent centerpiece in a necklace or corsage. The 38.10 carat rectangular-cut diamond (lot 394) is everything that one would want in a stone of this shape. It was this cut that earlier in the twentieth century was considered to be the greatest cutting innovation of our time. The slightly flat stone spreads out to look even larger than it's already exceptional weight and the life of the stone is explosive. The angle of the facets will determine the way that light is reflected inside the stone and in a shallower gem, to have such life where light is travelling shorter distances, is extremely difficult for a cutter to achieve.
Colored diamonds are probably the most enigmatic of all gems whether they be colored because of trace elements within the pure carbon crystal, structural stresses and abnormalities, or even irradiation permeating into the mineral. Once more the skill of the cutter is paramount, knowing how to achieve the greatest intensity of color, keeping the distribution even and not allowing any secondary colors to creep in unnecessarily. The most obdurate shape for a colored diamond is the rectangular-cut, with its symmetrical lines there is little scope to hold light and to enhance color, the regular temptation is to modify the shape to avoid these difficulties. The cutter of the 8.78 carat pink diamond (lot 401) may have been tempted to do this as it would intensify the pure pink found in this stone but in doing so the cool elegant lines would have been lost. The intensely saturated 4.18 carat yellow diamond (lot 387) is so extraordinary in color to modify it would only confuse the eye. Often the form of the crystal and impurities within the stone do not lend themselves to this cut and not all collectors necessarily care for it. It is for the skill of the lapidary to determine which shape will yield the largest stone and display the most beautiful color, once this has begun there is often no turning back and judgement is critical.
One of the most extraordinary stones in this group is not a faceted gem at all, but an emerald crystal from the Muzo mine in Colombia. The 655.40 carat deep green crystal (lot 396) was displayed at the 1983 Gem & Mineral show in Tuscon and was heralded as one of the finest crystals in existence. It is a perfect example of the hexagonal crystal system and with its astonishing size and rich green color, it perfectly illustrates the magical world of crystal and minerals.
Another exceptional stone is the 15.01 carat octagonal ruby (lot 398). Unheated Burma rubies of gem size are increasingly rare to find over ten carats. It is also difficult to find a conventional step-cut stone as inclusions within the crystal forces the cutter to move away from a symmetrical form and create cushion-shaped stones with off-centered pavilions. So to have the combination of size, color and shape is extremely exciting.
Diamonds and colored stones offer an astonishing variety of size, color and form, appealing to collectors and jewelry lovers alike. In judging these wonders look at the stone first, do not lunge for the certificate or loupe. It is easy to criticize but before doing so understand what benchmarks you are using. Very often you may even be comparing in your mind a stone that doesn't exist. Most importantly, love and admire what you see, nature spent millions of years preparing it for your enjoyment.
A SPECTACULAR SET OF PINK AND YELLOW DIAMOND AND DEMANTOID GARNET BROOCHES
Details
A SPECTACULAR SET OF PINK AND YELLOW DIAMOND AND DEMANTOID GARNET BROOCHES
Comprising an articulated brooch of stylized leaf design, with pavé-set demantoid garnets to the circular-cut yellow diamond stem, enhanced by a pear-shaped yellow diamond terminal; together with a detachable sculpted orchid brooch, extending undulating pavé-set pink diamond petals, mounted in 18k pink and yellow gold
Comprising an articulated brooch of stylized leaf design, with pavé-set demantoid garnets to the circular-cut yellow diamond stem, enhanced by a pear-shaped yellow diamond terminal; together with a detachable sculpted orchid brooch, extending undulating pavé-set pink diamond petals, mounted in 18k pink and yellow gold