A RARE ENAMEL BANGLE, BY FALIZE
A RARE ENAMEL BANGLE, BY FALIZE

Details
A RARE ENAMEL BANGLE, BY FALIZE
Designed as a hinged band of translucent cloisonné enamelled panels inscribed with a red enamel message of love "Tout par amour/Partout amour/Amour partout", against a light blue ground applied with polychrome enamel holly and forget-me-not decoration, circa 1890, 6.5 cm diameter
By Falize
Literature
Cf. Katherine Purcell, "Falize: A Dynasty of Jewelers", Thames and Hudson, London, 1999, page 228
Cf. Christie's, "Magnificent Jewels", New York, 8 - 9 April 2002, lot 190
Cf. Christie's, "Important Antique Jewellery", London, 29 November 2000, lot 13
Cf. Christie's, "Magnificent Jewels", Geneva, 17 May 2000, lot 425

Lot Essay

This Falize bracelet is a typical example of the firm's tributes to medieval art. Under the influence of the Arts and Crafts movement where the Middle Ages and the Renaissance were seen as model eras, period pieces often featured Medieval and Renaissance natural motifs. Medieval calligraphers often used decorative elements to emphasize initial letters from nature. The vivid palette in which botanical motifs were carried out could be perfectly transposed into enamels, and holly or ivy leaf motifs were used by Falize on hinged panels of bracelets to great effect.

Alexis Falize, the founder of the Falize dynasty together with his son Lucien Falize (1839-1897) created this kind of bracelets with cloisonné enamel decorated with mottoes in medieval script. This type of decoration had been fashionable towards the end of the 14th Century and was transposed by Falize onto the flat surfaces of these jewellery pieces which were ideal to carry such scipts. Falize wrote "so many things can be engraved on a circle of gold... monograms, mottoes, cyphers, emblems. Commemorations of marriages, births, family events to be remembered, particular dates, whether happy or sad. These bracelets are intimate mementos and will be handed down as family heirlooms, as precious as illuminated parchments".

The incredible craftsmanship of the enamel-work in this piece is demonstrative of what made the House of Falize so famous and its jewellery so rare. Lucien Falize revived the Renaissance art of enamel; and some say that he built the name of Falize upon the enamel jewels he designed and produced. For over 15 years, he studied and learned to perfect Renaissance techniques of layering opaque and translucent glass upon gold plates, using brilliant color schemes and creating intricate designs that delight the eye. Both Pierre and André inherited their father's love of enamel, but it was André who carried on his father's work creating fabulous enamel jewels in the name of Falize Frères.

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