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THE PROPERTY OF A LADY
A HISTORIC DIAMOND AND NATURAL PEARL TIARA, BY KÖCHERT
Details
A HISTORIC DIAMOND AND NATURAL PEARL TIARA, BY KÖCHERT
Consisting of three open-work plaques each set with a drop-shaped natural pearl to the old-cut diamond border and interlinking diamond ribbon surround, detaching to form three brooches, the central piece also forming a pendant with optional pearl drop, mounted in silver and gold, with brooch and necklace fittings, made in 1913, 5.8 cm high at centre, with fitted maroon leather Köchert case
Signed Æ K for Köchert
Accompanied by report no. 45045 dated 25 July 2005 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the four pearls are natural saltwater pearls (10)
Consisting of three open-work plaques each set with a drop-shaped natural pearl to the old-cut diamond border and interlinking diamond ribbon surround, detaching to form three brooches, the central piece also forming a pendant with optional pearl drop, mounted in silver and gold, with brooch and necklace fittings, made in 1913, 5.8 cm high at centre, with fitted maroon leather Köchert case
Signed Æ K for Köchert
Accompanied by report no. 45045 dated 25 July 2005 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the four pearls are natural saltwater pearls (10)
Provenance
Formerly the property of Marie Valerie, Archduchess of Austria (1868-1924)
Literature
Irmgard von Hauser Köchert, Köchert. Imperial Jewellers in Vienna: Jewellery Designs 1810-1940 (Florence 1990), pp. 91 and 175
Further details
This tiara was made by Theodor Köchert (1859-1936) in April 1913 for Archduchess Marie Valerie, daughter of Emperor Franz Josef I of Austria and his wife Elisabeth of Bavaria, nicknamed "Sissi". Marie Valerie was Sissi's favourite daughter who, when it was time to marry, flatly refused a dynastic marriage and married her close cousin Franz Salvator, Archduke of Austria-Tuscany whom she loved and with whom she had ten children. Sissi had supported her daughter in her decision, causing a large rift from Crown Prince Rudolf, Marie Valerie's older brother by ten years.
According to the Köchert archives, an original drawing gave the commissioner the choice between two designs. A photograph shows the completed piece, although two plaques and the headband are now no longer with the tiara.
According to the Köchert archives, an original drawing gave the commissioner the choice between two designs. A photograph shows the completed piece, although two plaques and the headband are now no longer with the tiara.