1 bottle per lot
Details
Château d'Yquem--Vintage 1921
Sauternes, 1er grand cru classé
Level: into neck; Rebouché en 1990, bin soiled and nicked label
1921 *****
Unquestionably the greatest vintage of the 20th century, Yquem is particular being legendary. Following the hottest summer since 1893, grapes were harvested with a tremendously high sugar content which, after fermentation, resulted in high levels of alcohol and residual sugar.
Ch d'Yquem
A colossus. Perhaps the most staggeringly rich Yquem of all time, certainly since the towering 1847. A word of advice; do not be put off by the dark colour. This is correct and the same applies to slightly lesser extent with Yquem 1929 and 1937.
I am of course spoiled. But it is my job; and I have had the privilege and pleasure of tasting - of drinking (even I do not spit out the'21 Yquem) the wines - at last count - over 30 times, from magnums as well as bottles. Not all have warranted 5 stars for, as always, provenance, storage and state of the cork has a bearing. But most have been unforgettable.
One of the most unusual had been bottle in Switzerland (1921 was the last vintage to be sold by Lur Saluces in cask). It was in a green glass bottle with pictorial label and short cork. Apart from the (harmless) tartaric acid crystals - after all, Switzerland can get pretty cold in winter - it was excellent.
One thing I have noticed is that the differences are more due to bottle variation rather than the wine's evolution which, at least for the past 30 or so years, seems to be relatively static.
Rather than give a blow by blow account I propose to mention two tastings and three fairly recent dinners, the first in Germany at Peter Ziegler's tasting, in the eighth and final 'flight'. It was placed between the 1893 and 1945 Yquems, ending with von Shoönborn's Marcobrunner feinste TBA. I gave the 1893 and 1921 equally high marks but actually preferred the exquisite 1925 Yquem.
Coincidentally, Christan Sveaas' dinner in 1996, which opened with the 1893, ended with a superb (6-star) 1921. At the Rodenstock Yquem marathon in 1998 I gave it my highest marks, fractionally above 1869 and 1937 (out of a total of 125 vintages tasted that week). It was voluptuous at Josh Latner's dinner at the Lanesborough Hotel in London, January 2000 and, when last encountered it was sheer perfection.
Finally, I shall endeavour to describe the elements and variations in appearance, nose and taste. Certainly not dark, but in my last five notes varying from fairly deep, at best a warm amber - gold, on one occasion reminding me of an old oloroso sherry, on another Bual Madeira-like, with a pronounced apple-green rim, The bouquet, very rich, honeyed of course, peachy, barley sugar (boiled and spun sugar), intense yet fragrant, 'custard cream', crème brûlée yet again, but very true. On the palate from sweet to very sweet, depending I think on context, unquestionably rich, powerful, even assertive, great length and intensity, and supported by life-preserving acidity. One of life's sublime experiences. Last tasted a bottle brought by Paolo Pong to a dinner at Jancis Robinson's, Dec 2000 *****, MB Vintage Wine
1 bottle per lot
Sauternes, 1er grand cru classé
Level: into neck; Rebouché en 1990, bin soiled and nicked label
1921 *****
Unquestionably the greatest vintage of the 20th century, Yquem is particular being legendary. Following the hottest summer since 1893, grapes were harvested with a tremendously high sugar content which, after fermentation, resulted in high levels of alcohol and residual sugar.
Ch d'Yquem
A colossus. Perhaps the most staggeringly rich Yquem of all time, certainly since the towering 1847. A word of advice; do not be put off by the dark colour. This is correct and the same applies to slightly lesser extent with Yquem 1929 and 1937.
I am of course spoiled. But it is my job; and I have had the privilege and pleasure of tasting - of drinking (even I do not spit out the'21 Yquem) the wines - at last count - over 30 times, from magnums as well as bottles. Not all have warranted 5 stars for, as always, provenance, storage and state of the cork has a bearing. But most have been unforgettable.
One of the most unusual had been bottle in Switzerland (1921 was the last vintage to be sold by Lur Saluces in cask). It was in a green glass bottle with pictorial label and short cork. Apart from the (harmless) tartaric acid crystals - after all, Switzerland can get pretty cold in winter - it was excellent.
One thing I have noticed is that the differences are more due to bottle variation rather than the wine's evolution which, at least for the past 30 or so years, seems to be relatively static.
Rather than give a blow by blow account I propose to mention two tastings and three fairly recent dinners, the first in Germany at Peter Ziegler's tasting, in the eighth and final 'flight'. It was placed between the 1893 and 1945 Yquems, ending with von Shoönborn's Marcobrunner feinste TBA. I gave the 1893 and 1921 equally high marks but actually preferred the exquisite 1925 Yquem.
Coincidentally, Christan Sveaas' dinner in 1996, which opened with the 1893, ended with a superb (6-star) 1921. At the Rodenstock Yquem marathon in 1998 I gave it my highest marks, fractionally above 1869 and 1937 (out of a total of 125 vintages tasted that week). It was voluptuous at Josh Latner's dinner at the Lanesborough Hotel in London, January 2000 and, when last encountered it was sheer perfection.
Finally, I shall endeavour to describe the elements and variations in appearance, nose and taste. Certainly not dark, but in my last five notes varying from fairly deep, at best a warm amber - gold, on one occasion reminding me of an old oloroso sherry, on another Bual Madeira-like, with a pronounced apple-green rim, The bouquet, very rich, honeyed of course, peachy, barley sugar (boiled and spun sugar), intense yet fragrant, 'custard cream', crème brûlée yet again, but very true. On the palate from sweet to very sweet, depending I think on context, unquestionably rich, powerful, even assertive, great length and intensity, and supported by life-preserving acidity. One of life's sublime experiences. Last tasted a bottle brought by Paolo Pong to a dinner at Jancis Robinson's, Dec 2000 *****, MB Vintage Wine
1 bottle per lot