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A RARE EMBROIDERED RED SATIN HAN CHINESE WOMAN'S COAT, MANGAO
A RARE EMBROIDERED RED SATIN HAN CHINESE WOMAN'S COAT, MANGAO

JIAQING PERIOD (1796-1820)

Details
A RARE EMBROIDERED RED SATIN HAN CHINESE WOMAN'S COAT, MANGAO
JIAQING PERIOD (1796-1820)
The red silk satin worked in horizontally couched gold-wrapped thread and fine Peking knot with four-clawed dragons pursuing flaming pearls amidst lingzhi-shaped clouds, bats and flowers above a terrestrial diagram and lishui stripe and continuing on the wide sleeves, the rolling waves topped by froth worked in silver-wrapped thread and pearls in multicolored Peking knot
43 in. (109.2 cm.) long x 82 in. (208.3 cm.) across
Provenance
Private American collection.
Literature
V. Garrett, Chinese Dress, Tokyo/Rutland, Vermont/Singapore, 2007, p. 99, fig. 187.

Lot Essay

The mangao or 'dragon' jacket was based on Ming dynasty styles of dress, with wide sleeves. They continued to be worn by Han Chinese women, who did not wear the Manchu robes of the succeeding Qing dynasty. This example is unusual as it dates from the late 18th - early 19th century.
Red is associated with family celebrations, especially weddings, births and birthdays, which is most appropriate as the word for red, fu, is a pun on the word for happiness.
Compare the similar wedding robe from the Hong Kong Museum of Art, illustrated by V.M. Garrett, Chinese Clothing: An Illustrated Guide, New York, 1994, pl. 37.

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