1 dozen bottles per lot
Details
THE CHANGING FACE OF BORDEAUX: THE WINES OF OUR GENERATION
Extracts from Vintage Wine by Michael Broadbent, M.W.
1980-1989
Unquestionably this was a great decade, matching the 1920s for the number of high quality vintages. Unlike the early 1930s and the mid-1970s, when poor weather and a severe recession coincided, the 1980s reversed the process: there was, allowing for the natural variations described below, overall a vast improvement in weather conditions, and, even more happily, a renewed demand to match. The wine trade, if not exactly licking its wounds, did not re-enter the market and stock up. The big brewers in Britain had burnt their fingers once and, since then, have been more or less out of the market, private customers being the main buyers of en primeur wines. In the United States and further afield, châteaux proprietors had the means to renovate, to install new vats, to increase the use of new barrels, even to rebuild vineyard walls. But the most important result for the consumer was the increasing care in the vineyards: pruning and green pruning to reduce yields and increase quality, and the selection of only the best vats for the grand vin. The other noticeable thing about the 1980s is the increasing number of 'second wines' made from the less fine vats and wines made from young vines. This was a contrast to the depression in the mid-1970s, when this sort of care and selection could not be afforded.
In the 1950s, consultant oenologists hardly existed. The precursor was Professor Riberau-Gayon, but the best known became Emile Peynaud. His influence was considerable. He always averred that his job was to prevent or rectify mistakes, and that the accusation that Médoc châteaux were being 'Peynaudised' was more than unfair. However, by the 1980s, there appeared a new breed of consultants employed to advise on and, hopefully, to improve the quality of wine. Happily, though, 'designer' wines had not yet arrived.
1990-1999
There are two ways of looking at the 1990 vintage: the end of an era or the bright start to a decade of dashed hopes, near misses, good but less glamorous years. Even the best vintages of this decade, and some are very good, tend to be compared with the 1990, just as a younger child looks up to the 'Captain of School'. What is certain is that the euphoria and general satisfaction with the 1980s, ending up with the magnificent twins of '89 and '90, made the 'rain-stopped-play' years of '91 to '93 less attractive. Anyway, by then everyone was sated with stock. The 1995 vintage was fairly well-timed. It gave the trade in Bordeaux and in London the impetus it needed.
Who were 'the trade'? Almost gone were the négociants-éléveurs, the big companies, the stockholders. All - well, almost all - were now brokers, selling on, not sitting on stock. In England, only the old-fashioned but surprisingly go-ahead Berry Bros and a handful of other London and provincial wine merchants supplied from stock. Though the auctioneers, Christie's and Sotheby's, continued to thrive, the brokers had captured a good deal of the trade, Bordeaux continuing to be a major part of their portfolio, their clients worldwide. Only in the United States was the wine trade still structured: importers, wholesalers and retailers keeping more or less to their own patch.
The only trouble with Americans is that so many of them, both trade and private buyers, are too influenced by wine critics, by the otherwise admirable Robert Parker in particular. How important is America and its taste preferences? To put this in perspective, in 1999 the United Kingdom and Germany each imported more Bordeaux by value and by volume than the United States. We would not mind so long as the producers took less notice of American-led global taste and stuck to what they do best: produce good, well-established, food-wine claret. Horses for courses, I say. Just one more thought: wouldn't it be boring if every vintage was of equal quality and style? Bordeaux, thanks to its maritime climate, produces great wines for long keeping and good value wines for everyday drinking.
2000 and the future
Unsurprisingly, the 2000 vintage was anticipated with a combination of hope and anxiety; merchants anticipated substantial trade to mark the millennium, unless of course the wine turned out to be unbelievably awful. In the event, most people were reasonably satisfied, particularly in light of the uneven 2001s.
And the future? As always, all depends on the weather and the market. They are linked. As we have seen, the former dictates the overall quality and style, and a healthy market is essential to keep the wheels of trade in motion. Putting it more bluntly, unless consumers and collectors are prepared to pay an appropriate price, the producer cannot afford to make a fine wine. If any reader doubts this, compare conditions between the mid-1970s and the mid-1980s. There is another factor: competition. It seems that all the world is making wine. Bordeaux grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are ubiquitous; Cabernet Franc less so but increasing; and even Petit Verdot and Malbec are used to produce wines for the table, and with increasing success. Although some of these Cabernet-based wines, particularly the cult ones are beginning to price themselves out of the market, most, notably those from Australia and Chile, are very good value. Incidentally, I have just used the expression 'wines for the table' because in France 'table wine', ridiculously in my opinion, has the lowest connotation whereas vino da tavola in Italy is a term that can nowadays be used for blends, often including Cabernet Sauvignon, which are in fact out of the ordinary and some are very good indeed. One thing that many of the New World and 'new' Old World Bordeaux look-alikes have in common is that they are not, in practice, ideal wines for the table; they are too rich, they dominate the food, they do not refresh; indeed, they are often best drunk without food, whereas decent red Bordeaux is made to accompany food and is best with food.
A word about investment and speculation. Only wines of high quality and of top vintages are suitable, which limits the range. Moreover, as one is always reminded when buying any financial product, prices, values, can go down as well as go up. To a certain extent, investment is justifiable but speculation, by its nature, is risky. But there is nothing new about speculation, it has been a feature of the Bordeaux market as long as there has been a market, the difference between the 1860s and 1960s is that speculators then were trade, whereas in the early 1970s and 1980s, it was non-trade.
The sensible thing is to follow the more traditional pattern, for claret drinkers to buy their favourite wines when young and cellar them so that, after ten years or more, they can drink them when mature and at cost. Mature wine of good quality surplus to requirements can then be sold at an enhanced price on the open market. As wine is a consumable commodity, its value increases as it matures and available stocks decrease.
I am an optimist. I am of course biased. One of the reasons that claret has been successful over the centuries is that it is the perfect beverage: its multifarious shades of red are appealing and informative, its nose is refreshing and, as it opens up, it can reveal endless nuances; it tastes good and, when sipped, the wine cleans the palate between each mouthful. The tannin, often harsh when young, is an antioxidant. It not only preserves the wine, but is said to help keep our arteries clear. Claret, particularly fine claret, is subtle and intriguing. It appeals to all our senses - and aids the digestion! Bordeaux is good for you!
1981-2000.
A Vintage by Vintage guide to Red Bordeaux
Extracts from Vintage Wine by Michael Broadbent, M.W.
1981 * * *
A good claret vintage, the sort that the British buy for drinking not for display or investment. The weather conditions were advantageous: the early flowering in hot, dry weather which continued throughout the summer with a sprinkling of rain in September to swell the grapes and which cleared for the harvest on 1 October. Particularly successful in Pomerol.
1982 * * * * *
A milestone. A sign of complete recovery of the market; more, that the combination of richness and perceived quality matched the economic climate. It was the first really important, and well-timed, vin de garde since 1970, and perhaps the first universally touted ripe-for-investment vintage of the post was period. But how have they turned out, and what is their future?
First though, the climatic conditions preceding the birth of this vintage. Ideal growing conditions. Flowering early and evenly. Hot and dry summer, harvest from 14 September in great heat, the early-ripening Merlot with very high must weight. There was then a change, two days of heavy rain. I was there and thought it presaged another '64. The sun and fresh breezes enable the Cabernets to ripen more normally. Rich tannic wines resulted. The big guns still have fire power and length of trajectory.
1985 * * * * *
I have been much looking forward to reviewing this vintage hoping that a reappraisal of my notes would confirm my perceptions. It seems to encapsulate all that is good about Bordeaux, the wine, not the city: its weight, its balance, its character. It is certainly my favorite vintage of this splendid decade typifying claret at its best. But why, and how? Quite simple really: after one of the coldest winters on record, happily when the vines were dormant, but with considerable frost damage in some districts, there was an early and substantial crop. Following a long, hot summer, the harvest took place in ideal conditions. Only the unlucky or incapable made a mess of their '85s. Having re-read all my notes, I am more than ever convinced that this is one of the most perfect vintages, both for drinking now and for keeping.
1986 * * * *
I must confess, my first, second and most recent impressions of this vintage have varied. At first I didn't know quite what to make of it. Then, after the 1988s came along I saw a certain similarity, linking the '86s and '88s as firm, relatively slow off the mark. But can the most prolific crop since World War Two, 15 bigger than 1985, produce wines of real quality? The '85s managed it, but the weather conditions were slightly different. In 1986 bud break was delayed, though the weather improved and the flowering was successful. The summer was hot and dry until the latter part of September when, after a useful sprinkling of rain, there was a violent storm which dumped 10cm of rain on the city of Bordeaux and its immediate surroundings. The harvest began at the very end of September and continued into October in glorious weather. Having read through a large number of my notes, my impression of the vintage has become more clarified, and I think I can answer the question posed above.
On the whole, 1986 produced hard, tannic wines which at best, given time, might - just might - turn out well. But I would not bank on it, except for Mouton and just one or two others. They are of course good 'food wines' and are unlikely to go 'over the hill' without plenty of notice.
1988 * * * *
The first of a trio of very good vintages and the penultimate vintage of a more than interesting decade. Rather like the '86s, with which, at one time, they seemed to be level pegging, I now think that the '88s, initially somewhat overrated, are now just about coming into their own as serious long-term clarets.
Climatically, for this has the greatest influence on quality and quantity, the spring of 1988 was more than just usually wet, necessitating much spraying; the later flowering conditions were uneven. The summer, from July to September, was drier than usual, monthly temperatures being average. The grapes were ripe and thick-skinned, resulting in deep colours and high tannins following a late harvest in satisfactory conditions.
My conclusion is that the 1988 is a very good vintage and currently undervalued; but in the end, time and tannin will be jostling for supremacy.
1989 * * * * *
Unquestionably a great vintage and one which brought the decade to a resounding close.
I originally considered extending this section to end with the 1990s, as 1988, '89 and '90 are such a formidable trio, each different in its own way. However, I might as well stick to plan, ending on a high and starting the next with a kick start as with the earlier twins, 1899 and 1900.
First, the weather conditions. In May, growth was three weeks ahead of normal. Early flowering in excellent conditions, followed by the hottest summer since 1949 and the earliest harvest since 1983. However, though the grapes were fully ripe the tannins were not, though later-picked grapes did have softer tannins, but at the expense of acidity.
When youthful, the wines almost without exception were extraordinarily appealing. I personally thought we were in for another '85 but with extra dimensions; perhaps even an early developer. In fact, what seems to have happened is a sort of reversal of roles, the tannin becoming more noticeable, turning the '89 into a much longer-haul vintage than I had anticipated. Nevertheless, many superlative wines.
1990 * * * * *
An excellent vintage with similar attributes to the '89 but certainly not an identical twin.
First, the growing conditions. January to March unusually warm and sunny, up to 25 degrees C on 24 February, advancing vegetation. Beneficial rain in April followed by a very hot, dry and sunny May. The flowering was uneven and prolonged, satisfactory for the Merlots, less so for Cabernet Sauvignon. July was excessively hot, up to just short of 39 degrees C on the 21st. This heat had a reverse effect, hindering maturation by impeding the rising of the sap. August was warm and dry. Unlike 1989 this did not deter the ripening, as a well-timed beneficial sprinkling of rain in September enabled the grapes to be harvested from around mid-month. In general, the Merlots were in remarkable condition with some of the highest levels of sugar vintage for decades. The conditions were such that virtually no one made a poor wine and even the habitual underperformers did well.
1993 * * to * * *
Variable; the results depending, as suggested by Peter Sichel in his report on the previous vintage, less on good luck than on good management, care and selection. The problem once again was rain. Unlike 1991, when the rains arrived at an inopportune time after an otherwise excellent growing season, or 1992 which skirted the edges of a complete washout, 1993 had more rain than either - 160 days out of 365 - but the growing season was unusual in that the first three months were abnormally dry with the burgeoning vines dying for a drink, the next four months quite the opposite, with the heaviest rains in September. Yet, despite those vagaries, the vices were in much better shape than might have been expected, the Merlots in particular being almost perfectly ripe by mid-September. The effect of rain is juice dilution, and the later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignons were susceptible, which is where care and selection came in.
I was able to taste a wide range of '93s organised by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, at the opening tasting for international wine writers in Bordeaux in April 1994 (1) and, 12 months later, for the trade at the Merchant-Taylors' Hall in the City of London (2). The latter is a one-day tasting with tables manned by the proprietors, their wines ranged by district. This is not the ideal set up but at least enables me to follow up, however superficially (because of the limited time and crowded attendance), the previous tasting which takes place in more leisurely, structured and seated conditions over four days in Bordeaux. There was also a useful MW tasting on '93s in November 1977 at Stainer's Hall in the City (3).
1994 * * *
Despite another rainy September, a surprisingly good vintage which was, however, upstaged by the 95's.
The winter of 1993-94 was one of the warmest on record, the year opening with mild temperatures and normal rainfall. Budding took place at the end of March but the beginning of April was cold, with heavy rain. This was followed, on the 15th, by heavy frost across the whole region. Overall this reduced the potential crop by about 50 in some vineyard plots from 70 to 100 Warm weather continued through August. Everything was set, as in 1993, for a fine, early harvest but from 7 September, heavy rains soused the region. Picking, which had started on the 9th, was resumed around the 19th, most grapes being picked around the 24-25th after which there was more rain. Some châteaux chose to wait until fine weather resumed on the 28th, some Cabernet Sauvignons being picked up to 7 October. Because of the frosts, the yields were small but the early-picked Merlot and Cabernet Franc were of good quality, the later-picked Cabernet Sauvignon uneven.
Who would be a grape grower?
1995 * * * *
After the previous less inspiring four vintages, 1995 was much welcomed by trade and consumers alike. It was the first major en primeur vintage sales campaign since 1990; perhaps overhyped with prices to match. Yet it has turned out well, to the extent that I am tempted to add an extra star. But let's see.
The growing season started well, early and consistent, following a very mild winter with substantial rainfall to help replenish the water level. Bud break was regular, with rapid flowering before the end of May. The driest summer for 20 years, unusually hot too, up to 30 degrees C. Véraison was also early. In short, all was set for an exceptional vintage. Picking started early on 11 September, but was almost immediately interrupted by heavy rain which then subsided into light showers. These lasted until the 20th, after which most châteaux resumed picking in increasingly warm weather ending with an Indian summer.
Some Merlots were caught by the early rain but Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon were very successful, the latter achieving almost unheard of sugar levels. Overall, the wines are ripe, firm, with considerable charm and a good fortune.
1996 * * to * * * *
Though upstaged by the attractive '95s, this vintage is better than it was first made out to be, and improves greatly on acquaintance. Indeed, after looking through my notes, I think it is a seriously underrated vintage.
First, the vital (growing) statistics: the occasional bouts of frost in February and March were too early to do any damage though the bud-break was delayed until mid-April. The all important flowering was quick and even, finished by the 20th day of a very hot June. It continued warm until August which started cool but ended with hot sun and cold nights. High expectations were initially dampened, pre-harvest rain affecting the early-ripening Merlots which diluted and reduced the crop size in Pomerol and St.-Émilion. The Médoc fared better with roughly half the rainfall, though towards the end of September, it rained again. The late-picked Cabernets were of high quality resulting in rich, fairly concentrated wines. This vintage is worth watching.
1997 * * *
On the whole, this was a surprisingly useful, very drinkable vintage though it was launched on the market at too ambitious a price. Looking at my notes on the weather, so crucial for crop size and quality, the phrase 'early and long' recurs: an unusually warm February and the hottest spring for half a century caused premature but prolonged bud break and uneven conditions. Flowering was also very early, usually good news for it is normally the harbinger of an early harvest - but this was also extended and uneven. May was cool and wet which caused coulure and millerandage, which are both difficult to prevent and both reduce crop size. Rain in May and late June with rot problems. Fortunately it was hot and sunny for the second half of August and through the unusually early and - once more - prolonged harvest. Some châteaux picked early and some held on for more phenolic ripeness.
I have around 300 notes on 135 châteaux, many first tasted at the Union des Grands Crus tasting in Bordeaux in the spring after the vintage and in London a year later; also there was a useful MW tasting of '97s in 2001 which filled in a few gaps and confirmed my earlier opinions. In addition I have enjoyed drinking many minor clarets of this vintage on social occasions.
Overall it is an attractive vintage for drinking now.
1998 * * to * * *
Variable, like so many recent Bordeaux vintages; but, as always in less than perfect weather conditions, so much depended on the foresight and skill of individual châteaux proprietors and/or their winemakers. Moreover, the increasing use of consulting enologists is having a unifying effect on the style of wine produced.
Mild rainy winter; dry sunny warm spring, encouraging early bud break. April cold and wet, but early May, having been spared dangerous frosts, was beneficial, resulting in one of the earliest flowerings this decade. June was erratic while August was too dry and too hot with scorching temperatures, up to 39 degrees C on 10 and 11 August. This shriveled the vine leaves and grilled the grapes, inhibiting sap rise. September was a roller coaster: good weather, storms and sunshine in the second half followed by heavy rain in October. Merlot, almost always early ripening, was picked before the heavy rains, Pomerol and St-Émilion benefiting. The Médocs were uneven with high Cabernet tannins. Overall, the second largest crop this century. I made around 200 notes on a score of châteaux, mainly at the annual spring tastings of the Union des Grands Crus in Bordeaux and London, in 1999 and 2000 respectively.
1999 * * to * * * *
Less and less one can generalize about a vintage save to say that the care, skill (and occasionally, a bit of luck) of the maître de chai, winemaker, or proprietor - aided and abetted by consultant-enologists - can make the difference between a poor wine and a good wine. Over the past few years far more attention has been given to vine management for, as they say, good wine can only be made from good grapes.
That good grapes could be produced at the end of a growing season like 1999 is little short of a miracle. For some it was one of the most difficult years in memory, difficult and costly. The wet winter of 1998 topped up the water table. January and February were cool and abnormally dry but bud burst took place in equally abnormal heat. April and May were also very hot, but humidity necessitated early spraying. Exceptional heat in the latter part of May encouraged early flowering. Early June was stormy and caused some coulure, but the rest of the month was again very hot right through to the end of July. August variable, delaying véraison (colour change), but the three weeks which led up to 5 September were ideal, dry and warm. This was rudely interrupted by a severe thunderstorm and a swathe of devastating hail from Libourne to St-Émilion. Who would be a vigneron! And which of them made good wine? Those who sprayed in time, green pruned, sorted the grapes and selected the best vats. On the whole, some very agreeable wines though the market held back a little, to see how the 2000 would turn out.
2000 * * * to * * * * *
The growing season, as always in Bordeaux, was by no means straightforward. The New Year and spring were more than mild, with above-average temperatures in March, resulting in early bud burst. However, though the warmth continued in April and May, it was wet, flowering starting at the end of the month. The damp conditions continued through a depressingly cloudy and humid June and July. What saved the day (rather like 1978 though the heat and sun arrived a month earlier) was almost unbroken sunshine without rain from August through September, resulting in fine ripening conditions favouring the Merlot and, for those who waited and timed it right, the late-ripening Cabernet-Sauvignon.
Unquestionably, this was a very good year, fairly uniform in quality with some really outstanding wines. No serious cellar should be without some decent 2000s.
CHÂTEAU PICHON-LONGUEVILLE, LALANDE
Vines were planted on the area to become known as the Pichon estate in the late 17th century by Pierre de Rauzan, the father in-law of Jacques de Pichon. Pichon soon inherited the land and due to its close geographical as well as quality proximity to Latour the wine soon garnered an excellent reputation. After the death of Baron Jean-Pierre de Pichon in 1850 at the age of 95, the Pichon estate was divided with three-fifths going to the three daughters, becoming "Lalande" and the remainder to the two sons or the "Baron" side. The modern era and rebirth of Pichon-Lalande was ushered in when Madame May-Eliane de Lencquesaing assumed majority control bringing on
exacting controls, numerous improvements and personally leading the blind tasting during assemblage. High percentages of Merlot and Cabernet Franc as well as a good portion of the vineyards lying in St. Julien allow for a complex and supple style with distinctive aromas of olive, crème de cassis and cedar. While concentration and depth are provided for by the relatively high extract in the winemaking as well as the significant Petit Verdot component added to the Cabernet Sauvignon backbone.
Château Pichon-Longueville, Lalande--Vintage 2000
Pauillac, 2me cru classé
All lots in original wooden cases
Parcel: lots 1-5
"A distinctive bouquet of violets, soy, pepper, blackberries, cassis, and tree bark gives this 2001 a singular style. This dense ruby/purple-colored blend of 50 Cabernet Sauvignon, 36 Merlot, and a whopping 14 Petit Verdot exhibits plenty of structure, wonderful sweetness, a closed style, but a rich, textured, persistent character. The unusually large percentage of Petit Verdot gives the wine more structure and less initial charm. This beauty needs some time in the cellar. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018" Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #153 (June 2004)
1 dozen bottles per lot
Extracts from Vintage Wine by Michael Broadbent, M.W.
1980-1989
Unquestionably this was a great decade, matching the 1920s for the number of high quality vintages. Unlike the early 1930s and the mid-1970s, when poor weather and a severe recession coincided, the 1980s reversed the process: there was, allowing for the natural variations described below, overall a vast improvement in weather conditions, and, even more happily, a renewed demand to match. The wine trade, if not exactly licking its wounds, did not re-enter the market and stock up. The big brewers in Britain had burnt their fingers once and, since then, have been more or less out of the market, private customers being the main buyers of en primeur wines. In the United States and further afield, châteaux proprietors had the means to renovate, to install new vats, to increase the use of new barrels, even to rebuild vineyard walls. But the most important result for the consumer was the increasing care in the vineyards: pruning and green pruning to reduce yields and increase quality, and the selection of only the best vats for the grand vin. The other noticeable thing about the 1980s is the increasing number of 'second wines' made from the less fine vats and wines made from young vines. This was a contrast to the depression in the mid-1970s, when this sort of care and selection could not be afforded.
In the 1950s, consultant oenologists hardly existed. The precursor was Professor Riberau-Gayon, but the best known became Emile Peynaud. His influence was considerable. He always averred that his job was to prevent or rectify mistakes, and that the accusation that Médoc châteaux were being 'Peynaudised' was more than unfair. However, by the 1980s, there appeared a new breed of consultants employed to advise on and, hopefully, to improve the quality of wine. Happily, though, 'designer' wines had not yet arrived.
1990-1999
There are two ways of looking at the 1990 vintage: the end of an era or the bright start to a decade of dashed hopes, near misses, good but less glamorous years. Even the best vintages of this decade, and some are very good, tend to be compared with the 1990, just as a younger child looks up to the 'Captain of School'. What is certain is that the euphoria and general satisfaction with the 1980s, ending up with the magnificent twins of '89 and '90, made the 'rain-stopped-play' years of '91 to '93 less attractive. Anyway, by then everyone was sated with stock. The 1995 vintage was fairly well-timed. It gave the trade in Bordeaux and in London the impetus it needed.
Who were 'the trade'? Almost gone were the négociants-éléveurs, the big companies, the stockholders. All - well, almost all - were now brokers, selling on, not sitting on stock. In England, only the old-fashioned but surprisingly go-ahead Berry Bros and a handful of other London and provincial wine merchants supplied from stock. Though the auctioneers, Christie's and Sotheby's, continued to thrive, the brokers had captured a good deal of the trade, Bordeaux continuing to be a major part of their portfolio, their clients worldwide. Only in the United States was the wine trade still structured: importers, wholesalers and retailers keeping more or less to their own patch.
The only trouble with Americans is that so many of them, both trade and private buyers, are too influenced by wine critics, by the otherwise admirable Robert Parker in particular. How important is America and its taste preferences? To put this in perspective, in 1999 the United Kingdom and Germany each imported more Bordeaux by value and by volume than the United States. We would not mind so long as the producers took less notice of American-led global taste and stuck to what they do best: produce good, well-established, food-wine claret. Horses for courses, I say. Just one more thought: wouldn't it be boring if every vintage was of equal quality and style? Bordeaux, thanks to its maritime climate, produces great wines for long keeping and good value wines for everyday drinking.
2000 and the future
Unsurprisingly, the 2000 vintage was anticipated with a combination of hope and anxiety; merchants anticipated substantial trade to mark the millennium, unless of course the wine turned out to be unbelievably awful. In the event, most people were reasonably satisfied, particularly in light of the uneven 2001s.
And the future? As always, all depends on the weather and the market. They are linked. As we have seen, the former dictates the overall quality and style, and a healthy market is essential to keep the wheels of trade in motion. Putting it more bluntly, unless consumers and collectors are prepared to pay an appropriate price, the producer cannot afford to make a fine wine. If any reader doubts this, compare conditions between the mid-1970s and the mid-1980s. There is another factor: competition. It seems that all the world is making wine. Bordeaux grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are ubiquitous; Cabernet Franc less so but increasing; and even Petit Verdot and Malbec are used to produce wines for the table, and with increasing success. Although some of these Cabernet-based wines, particularly the cult ones are beginning to price themselves out of the market, most, notably those from Australia and Chile, are very good value. Incidentally, I have just used the expression 'wines for the table' because in France 'table wine', ridiculously in my opinion, has the lowest connotation whereas vino da tavola in Italy is a term that can nowadays be used for blends, often including Cabernet Sauvignon, which are in fact out of the ordinary and some are very good indeed. One thing that many of the New World and 'new' Old World Bordeaux look-alikes have in common is that they are not, in practice, ideal wines for the table; they are too rich, they dominate the food, they do not refresh; indeed, they are often best drunk without food, whereas decent red Bordeaux is made to accompany food and is best with food.
A word about investment and speculation. Only wines of high quality and of top vintages are suitable, which limits the range. Moreover, as one is always reminded when buying any financial product, prices, values, can go down as well as go up. To a certain extent, investment is justifiable but speculation, by its nature, is risky. But there is nothing new about speculation, it has been a feature of the Bordeaux market as long as there has been a market, the difference between the 1860s and 1960s is that speculators then were trade, whereas in the early 1970s and 1980s, it was non-trade.
The sensible thing is to follow the more traditional pattern, for claret drinkers to buy their favourite wines when young and cellar them so that, after ten years or more, they can drink them when mature and at cost. Mature wine of good quality surplus to requirements can then be sold at an enhanced price on the open market. As wine is a consumable commodity, its value increases as it matures and available stocks decrease.
I am an optimist. I am of course biased. One of the reasons that claret has been successful over the centuries is that it is the perfect beverage: its multifarious shades of red are appealing and informative, its nose is refreshing and, as it opens up, it can reveal endless nuances; it tastes good and, when sipped, the wine cleans the palate between each mouthful. The tannin, often harsh when young, is an antioxidant. It not only preserves the wine, but is said to help keep our arteries clear. Claret, particularly fine claret, is subtle and intriguing. It appeals to all our senses - and aids the digestion! Bordeaux is good for you!
1981-2000.
A Vintage by Vintage guide to Red Bordeaux
Extracts from Vintage Wine by Michael Broadbent, M.W.
1981 * * *
A good claret vintage, the sort that the British buy for drinking not for display or investment. The weather conditions were advantageous: the early flowering in hot, dry weather which continued throughout the summer with a sprinkling of rain in September to swell the grapes and which cleared for the harvest on 1 October. Particularly successful in Pomerol.
1982 * * * * *
A milestone. A sign of complete recovery of the market; more, that the combination of richness and perceived quality matched the economic climate. It was the first really important, and well-timed, vin de garde since 1970, and perhaps the first universally touted ripe-for-investment vintage of the post was period. But how have they turned out, and what is their future?
First though, the climatic conditions preceding the birth of this vintage. Ideal growing conditions. Flowering early and evenly. Hot and dry summer, harvest from 14 September in great heat, the early-ripening Merlot with very high must weight. There was then a change, two days of heavy rain. I was there and thought it presaged another '64. The sun and fresh breezes enable the Cabernets to ripen more normally. Rich tannic wines resulted. The big guns still have fire power and length of trajectory.
1985 * * * * *
I have been much looking forward to reviewing this vintage hoping that a reappraisal of my notes would confirm my perceptions. It seems to encapsulate all that is good about Bordeaux, the wine, not the city: its weight, its balance, its character. It is certainly my favorite vintage of this splendid decade typifying claret at its best. But why, and how? Quite simple really: after one of the coldest winters on record, happily when the vines were dormant, but with considerable frost damage in some districts, there was an early and substantial crop. Following a long, hot summer, the harvest took place in ideal conditions. Only the unlucky or incapable made a mess of their '85s. Having re-read all my notes, I am more than ever convinced that this is one of the most perfect vintages, both for drinking now and for keeping.
1986 * * * *
I must confess, my first, second and most recent impressions of this vintage have varied. At first I didn't know quite what to make of it. Then, after the 1988s came along I saw a certain similarity, linking the '86s and '88s as firm, relatively slow off the mark. But can the most prolific crop since World War Two, 15 bigger than 1985, produce wines of real quality? The '85s managed it, but the weather conditions were slightly different. In 1986 bud break was delayed, though the weather improved and the flowering was successful. The summer was hot and dry until the latter part of September when, after a useful sprinkling of rain, there was a violent storm which dumped 10cm of rain on the city of Bordeaux and its immediate surroundings. The harvest began at the very end of September and continued into October in glorious weather. Having read through a large number of my notes, my impression of the vintage has become more clarified, and I think I can answer the question posed above.
On the whole, 1986 produced hard, tannic wines which at best, given time, might - just might - turn out well. But I would not bank on it, except for Mouton and just one or two others. They are of course good 'food wines' and are unlikely to go 'over the hill' without plenty of notice.
1988 * * * *
The first of a trio of very good vintages and the penultimate vintage of a more than interesting decade. Rather like the '86s, with which, at one time, they seemed to be level pegging, I now think that the '88s, initially somewhat overrated, are now just about coming into their own as serious long-term clarets.
Climatically, for this has the greatest influence on quality and quantity, the spring of 1988 was more than just usually wet, necessitating much spraying; the later flowering conditions were uneven. The summer, from July to September, was drier than usual, monthly temperatures being average. The grapes were ripe and thick-skinned, resulting in deep colours and high tannins following a late harvest in satisfactory conditions.
My conclusion is that the 1988 is a very good vintage and currently undervalued; but in the end, time and tannin will be jostling for supremacy.
1989 * * * * *
Unquestionably a great vintage and one which brought the decade to a resounding close.
I originally considered extending this section to end with the 1990s, as 1988, '89 and '90 are such a formidable trio, each different in its own way. However, I might as well stick to plan, ending on a high and starting the next with a kick start as with the earlier twins, 1899 and 1900.
First, the weather conditions. In May, growth was three weeks ahead of normal. Early flowering in excellent conditions, followed by the hottest summer since 1949 and the earliest harvest since 1983. However, though the grapes were fully ripe the tannins were not, though later-picked grapes did have softer tannins, but at the expense of acidity.
When youthful, the wines almost without exception were extraordinarily appealing. I personally thought we were in for another '85 but with extra dimensions; perhaps even an early developer. In fact, what seems to have happened is a sort of reversal of roles, the tannin becoming more noticeable, turning the '89 into a much longer-haul vintage than I had anticipated. Nevertheless, many superlative wines.
1990 * * * * *
An excellent vintage with similar attributes to the '89 but certainly not an identical twin.
First, the growing conditions. January to March unusually warm and sunny, up to 25 degrees C on 24 February, advancing vegetation. Beneficial rain in April followed by a very hot, dry and sunny May. The flowering was uneven and prolonged, satisfactory for the Merlots, less so for Cabernet Sauvignon. July was excessively hot, up to just short of 39 degrees C on the 21st. This heat had a reverse effect, hindering maturation by impeding the rising of the sap. August was warm and dry. Unlike 1989 this did not deter the ripening, as a well-timed beneficial sprinkling of rain in September enabled the grapes to be harvested from around mid-month. In general, the Merlots were in remarkable condition with some of the highest levels of sugar vintage for decades. The conditions were such that virtually no one made a poor wine and even the habitual underperformers did well.
1993 * * to * * *
Variable; the results depending, as suggested by Peter Sichel in his report on the previous vintage, less on good luck than on good management, care and selection. The problem once again was rain. Unlike 1991, when the rains arrived at an inopportune time after an otherwise excellent growing season, or 1992 which skirted the edges of a complete washout, 1993 had more rain than either - 160 days out of 365 - but the growing season was unusual in that the first three months were abnormally dry with the burgeoning vines dying for a drink, the next four months quite the opposite, with the heaviest rains in September. Yet, despite those vagaries, the vices were in much better shape than might have been expected, the Merlots in particular being almost perfectly ripe by mid-September. The effect of rain is juice dilution, and the later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignons were susceptible, which is where care and selection came in.
I was able to taste a wide range of '93s organised by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, at the opening tasting for international wine writers in Bordeaux in April 1994 (1) and, 12 months later, for the trade at the Merchant-Taylors' Hall in the City of London (2). The latter is a one-day tasting with tables manned by the proprietors, their wines ranged by district. This is not the ideal set up but at least enables me to follow up, however superficially (because of the limited time and crowded attendance), the previous tasting which takes place in more leisurely, structured and seated conditions over four days in Bordeaux. There was also a useful MW tasting on '93s in November 1977 at Stainer's Hall in the City (3).
1994 * * *
Despite another rainy September, a surprisingly good vintage which was, however, upstaged by the 95's.
The winter of 1993-94 was one of the warmest on record, the year opening with mild temperatures and normal rainfall. Budding took place at the end of March but the beginning of April was cold, with heavy rain. This was followed, on the 15th, by heavy frost across the whole region. Overall this reduced the potential crop by about 50 in some vineyard plots from 70 to 100 Warm weather continued through August. Everything was set, as in 1993, for a fine, early harvest but from 7 September, heavy rains soused the region. Picking, which had started on the 9th, was resumed around the 19th, most grapes being picked around the 24-25th after which there was more rain. Some châteaux chose to wait until fine weather resumed on the 28th, some Cabernet Sauvignons being picked up to 7 October. Because of the frosts, the yields were small but the early-picked Merlot and Cabernet Franc were of good quality, the later-picked Cabernet Sauvignon uneven.
Who would be a grape grower?
1995 * * * *
After the previous less inspiring four vintages, 1995 was much welcomed by trade and consumers alike. It was the first major en primeur vintage sales campaign since 1990; perhaps overhyped with prices to match. Yet it has turned out well, to the extent that I am tempted to add an extra star. But let's see.
The growing season started well, early and consistent, following a very mild winter with substantial rainfall to help replenish the water level. Bud break was regular, with rapid flowering before the end of May. The driest summer for 20 years, unusually hot too, up to 30 degrees C. Véraison was also early. In short, all was set for an exceptional vintage. Picking started early on 11 September, but was almost immediately interrupted by heavy rain which then subsided into light showers. These lasted until the 20th, after which most châteaux resumed picking in increasingly warm weather ending with an Indian summer.
Some Merlots were caught by the early rain but Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon were very successful, the latter achieving almost unheard of sugar levels. Overall, the wines are ripe, firm, with considerable charm and a good fortune.
1996 * * to * * * *
Though upstaged by the attractive '95s, this vintage is better than it was first made out to be, and improves greatly on acquaintance. Indeed, after looking through my notes, I think it is a seriously underrated vintage.
First, the vital (growing) statistics: the occasional bouts of frost in February and March were too early to do any damage though the bud-break was delayed until mid-April. The all important flowering was quick and even, finished by the 20th day of a very hot June. It continued warm until August which started cool but ended with hot sun and cold nights. High expectations were initially dampened, pre-harvest rain affecting the early-ripening Merlots which diluted and reduced the crop size in Pomerol and St.-Émilion. The Médoc fared better with roughly half the rainfall, though towards the end of September, it rained again. The late-picked Cabernets were of high quality resulting in rich, fairly concentrated wines. This vintage is worth watching.
1997 * * *
On the whole, this was a surprisingly useful, very drinkable vintage though it was launched on the market at too ambitious a price. Looking at my notes on the weather, so crucial for crop size and quality, the phrase 'early and long' recurs: an unusually warm February and the hottest spring for half a century caused premature but prolonged bud break and uneven conditions. Flowering was also very early, usually good news for it is normally the harbinger of an early harvest - but this was also extended and uneven. May was cool and wet which caused coulure and millerandage, which are both difficult to prevent and both reduce crop size. Rain in May and late June with rot problems. Fortunately it was hot and sunny for the second half of August and through the unusually early and - once more - prolonged harvest. Some châteaux picked early and some held on for more phenolic ripeness.
I have around 300 notes on 135 châteaux, many first tasted at the Union des Grands Crus tasting in Bordeaux in the spring after the vintage and in London a year later; also there was a useful MW tasting of '97s in 2001 which filled in a few gaps and confirmed my earlier opinions. In addition I have enjoyed drinking many minor clarets of this vintage on social occasions.
Overall it is an attractive vintage for drinking now.
1998 * * to * * *
Variable, like so many recent Bordeaux vintages; but, as always in less than perfect weather conditions, so much depended on the foresight and skill of individual châteaux proprietors and/or their winemakers. Moreover, the increasing use of consulting enologists is having a unifying effect on the style of wine produced.
Mild rainy winter; dry sunny warm spring, encouraging early bud break. April cold and wet, but early May, having been spared dangerous frosts, was beneficial, resulting in one of the earliest flowerings this decade. June was erratic while August was too dry and too hot with scorching temperatures, up to 39 degrees C on 10 and 11 August. This shriveled the vine leaves and grilled the grapes, inhibiting sap rise. September was a roller coaster: good weather, storms and sunshine in the second half followed by heavy rain in October. Merlot, almost always early ripening, was picked before the heavy rains, Pomerol and St-Émilion benefiting. The Médocs were uneven with high Cabernet tannins. Overall, the second largest crop this century. I made around 200 notes on a score of châteaux, mainly at the annual spring tastings of the Union des Grands Crus in Bordeaux and London, in 1999 and 2000 respectively.
1999 * * to * * * *
Less and less one can generalize about a vintage save to say that the care, skill (and occasionally, a bit of luck) of the maître de chai, winemaker, or proprietor - aided and abetted by consultant-enologists - can make the difference between a poor wine and a good wine. Over the past few years far more attention has been given to vine management for, as they say, good wine can only be made from good grapes.
That good grapes could be produced at the end of a growing season like 1999 is little short of a miracle. For some it was one of the most difficult years in memory, difficult and costly. The wet winter of 1998 topped up the water table. January and February were cool and abnormally dry but bud burst took place in equally abnormal heat. April and May were also very hot, but humidity necessitated early spraying. Exceptional heat in the latter part of May encouraged early flowering. Early June was stormy and caused some coulure, but the rest of the month was again very hot right through to the end of July. August variable, delaying véraison (colour change), but the three weeks which led up to 5 September were ideal, dry and warm. This was rudely interrupted by a severe thunderstorm and a swathe of devastating hail from Libourne to St-Émilion. Who would be a vigneron! And which of them made good wine? Those who sprayed in time, green pruned, sorted the grapes and selected the best vats. On the whole, some very agreeable wines though the market held back a little, to see how the 2000 would turn out.
2000 * * * to * * * * *
The growing season, as always in Bordeaux, was by no means straightforward. The New Year and spring were more than mild, with above-average temperatures in March, resulting in early bud burst. However, though the warmth continued in April and May, it was wet, flowering starting at the end of the month. The damp conditions continued through a depressingly cloudy and humid June and July. What saved the day (rather like 1978 though the heat and sun arrived a month earlier) was almost unbroken sunshine without rain from August through September, resulting in fine ripening conditions favouring the Merlot and, for those who waited and timed it right, the late-ripening Cabernet-Sauvignon.
Unquestionably, this was a very good year, fairly uniform in quality with some really outstanding wines. No serious cellar should be without some decent 2000s.
CHÂTEAU PICHON-LONGUEVILLE, LALANDE
Vines were planted on the area to become known as the Pichon estate in the late 17th century by Pierre de Rauzan, the father in-law of Jacques de Pichon. Pichon soon inherited the land and due to its close geographical as well as quality proximity to Latour the wine soon garnered an excellent reputation. After the death of Baron Jean-Pierre de Pichon in 1850 at the age of 95, the Pichon estate was divided with three-fifths going to the three daughters, becoming "Lalande" and the remainder to the two sons or the "Baron" side. The modern era and rebirth of Pichon-Lalande was ushered in when Madame May-Eliane de Lencquesaing assumed majority control bringing on
exacting controls, numerous improvements and personally leading the blind tasting during assemblage. High percentages of Merlot and Cabernet Franc as well as a good portion of the vineyards lying in St. Julien allow for a complex and supple style with distinctive aromas of olive, crème de cassis and cedar. While concentration and depth are provided for by the relatively high extract in the winemaking as well as the significant Petit Verdot component added to the Cabernet Sauvignon backbone.
Château Pichon-Longueville, Lalande--Vintage 2000
Pauillac, 2me cru classé
All lots in original wooden cases
Parcel: lots 1-5
"A distinctive bouquet of violets, soy, pepper, blackberries, cassis, and tree bark gives this 2001 a singular style. This dense ruby/purple-colored blend of 50 Cabernet Sauvignon, 36 Merlot, and a whopping 14 Petit Verdot exhibits plenty of structure, wonderful sweetness, a closed style, but a rich, textured, persistent character. The unusually large percentage of Petit Verdot gives the wine more structure and less initial charm. This beauty needs some time in the cellar. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018" Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #153 (June 2004)
1 dozen bottles per lot
Special notice
ParcelWine