DOMAINE DE LA ROMANEE-CONTI
'Romanée-Conti,' as the local proverb goes, 'is the central pearl of the Burgundian necklace.' This miniuscule vineyard gives its name to the most famous Domaine in the world, commonly referred to as 'D.R.C.' or, more reverentially, as The Domaine.
This pearl, this small jewel, just under 5 acres, was coveted by a famous collector of jewelry, Madame de Pompadour, but she was out bid by the Prince de Conti, hence the name. The King's minister won against the King's mistress! In 1868 the vineyard passed to the de Villaine family and is still, today, managed by Aubert de Villaine.
It never fails to astonish me that the strips of vines which stretch only a modest number of meters up the very gentle slopes from the outskirts of an equally modest, indeed remarkably rural rambling of village Vosne, are capable of producing wines of such world class quality.
The strips of vines cultivated by the Domaine include La Tâche (nearly 15 acres), also a monopole or wholly owned vineyard, 13 acres of Romanée-Saint-Vivant--most elegant wine and, I think, fractionally underrated and over 8 acres of the more substantial Richebourg. Then, strictly speaking not in Vosne-Romanée but over the wall, literally uphill from Clos Vougeot, are 8 acres of the superb Grands-Echézeaux and just over 11 of Echézeaux.
One thing strikes me forcibly: these five sites prove unquestionably that the French notion of terroir is not a fancy figment of Gallic imagination for the differences between each of the wines is marked, so consistent. Yet all five of the D.R.C. burgundies are made, traditionally, in the same cellars from grapes of the same variety, Pinot Noir. Romanée-Conti itself has an unique concentration, La Tâche has a different sort of intensity, each having a superb yet vividly contrasting bouquet. Richebourg, next door, has a broader character, and so on. So what produces those differences: slight variations in subsoil, slope and drainage, fractionally, virtually imperceptible microclimate. Who knows. But fermented and élévé identically, the final wines are different.
The Price? Well, of course, there is no getting away from the bare facts: the production is so small and the world demand so high that even opening prices make one wince. But this is nothing new. The finest wines have always been the perogative of the seriously rich or fortunately privileged, from fat Prelates to their Royal Masters.
Another thing I have discovered. They keep so well. The 1937 Romanée-Conti is still magnificent, the 1945 La Tâche has an almost pristine depth of colour and fragrance. The wine opens up in the mouth fanning out like a peacock's tail. Even curious vintages like 1951 and 1954 can be surprisingly good. And do they change! Sometimes unconvincingly when young, they take on colour and depth. They are not wines for an instant sniff; they open up in the glass.
Michael Broadbent, M.W.
Christie's
Senior Consultant
Romanée-Conti--Vintage 1970
2 magnums per lot
Details
DOMAINE DE LA ROMANEE-CONTI
Romanée-Conti--Vintage 1970
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
"J L P Lebègue & Co. Ltd" neck slip labels. Badly bin-soiled, stained and slightly damaged labels. Light red colour and heavy sediment. Levels 4.2 cms and 4 cms below base of corks. In Christie's carton
Tasting Note: Rich, mature appearance; sweet, earthy, vegetal nose; rich but raw, powerful but with a bitter finish. Nov 2003 *** M.B.
2 magnums per lot
Romanée-Conti--Vintage 1970
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
"J L P Lebègue & Co. Ltd" neck slip labels. Badly bin-soiled, stained and slightly damaged labels. Light red colour and heavy sediment. Levels 4.2 cms and 4 cms below base of corks. In Christie's carton
Tasting Note: Rich, mature appearance; sweet, earthy, vegetal nose; rich but raw, powerful but with a bitter finish. Nov 2003 *** M.B.
2 magnums per lot