Lot Essay
Black pearls may be counted amongst the rarest of gems. Much scarcer than their white counterparts, a three-strand necklace is virtually unheard of. Amusingly, ancient civilizations held the somewhat poetic belief that pearls were formed from dewdrops. They maintained that white pearls resulted from creation in fair weather and darker ones from cloudy conditions. Contemporary gemmologists will put forward a more scientific theory that the colour derives from that of the shell in which the gem is born. Hence, historically, the black shells of Mexico and Panama produced some of the finest specimens.
Black pearls became particularly fashionable in the years after 1845. At this time, pearls from the Tuamotu Archipelago and other South Sea islands appeared on the market. There was also a resuscitation of the Mexican fisheries. Each of these locations produced a relatively high ratio of black pearls. This fact, combined with Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III's, penchant for the black gem, brought them in vogue. Her collection included a black pearl parure with a bracelet bearing three large examples. Her necklace was one of the few pieces that she kept until her death. The trend was followed by other European courts. One of the most impressive black pearl necklaces belonged to Empress Elizabeth of Austria, considered the most beautiful woman in Europe. It was set with thirty pearls weighing 1,040 grains. Also well known was the necklace and drops of Princess Mathilde, cousin of Napoleon III.
The present necklace belonged to Nina Dyer, wife of Baron Heinrich Thyssen and later of Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan. It was initially auctioned by Christie's in May 1969 as part of her estate. Prior to and after this jewel's initial appearance at auction, no black pearl necklace of equal importance has come under the hammer.
Black pearls became particularly fashionable in the years after 1845. At this time, pearls from the Tuamotu Archipelago and other South Sea islands appeared on the market. There was also a resuscitation of the Mexican fisheries. Each of these locations produced a relatively high ratio of black pearls. This fact, combined with Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III's, penchant for the black gem, brought them in vogue. Her collection included a black pearl parure with a bracelet bearing three large examples. Her necklace was one of the few pieces that she kept until her death. The trend was followed by other European courts. One of the most impressive black pearl necklaces belonged to Empress Elizabeth of Austria, considered the most beautiful woman in Europe. It was set with thirty pearls weighing 1,040 grains. Also well known was the necklace and drops of Princess Mathilde, cousin of Napoleon III.
The present necklace belonged to Nina Dyer, wife of Baron Heinrich Thyssen and later of Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan. It was initially auctioned by Christie's in May 1969 as part of her estate. Prior to and after this jewel's initial appearance at auction, no black pearl necklace of equal importance has come under the hammer.