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AN EXCEPTIONAL ART DECO 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, BY CARTIER
Items which contain rubies or jadeite originating … Read more
AN EXCEPTIONAL ART DECO 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, BY CARTIER

Details
AN EXCEPTIONAL ART DECO 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, BY CARTIER
Designed as an undulating circular-cut diamond vine with black enamel border detail, mounted with alternating carved emerald bead leaves and clusters of ruby bead berries studded with diamond collets, to the pavé-set diamond buckle clasp, circa 1928, 18.5cm long
Signed Cartier, no. 7250
Literature
Cf. Judy Rudoe, 'Cartier 1900-1939', published by Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 1997, p.228, no. 158, for a similar bracelet made in 1928.
Special Notice

Items which contain rubies or jadeite originating in Burma (Myanmar) may not be imported into the U.S. Please be advised that a purchasers inability to import any such item into the U.S. or any other country shall not constitute grounds for non-payment or cancellation of the sale. With respect to items that contain any other types of gemstones originating in Burma (e.g., sapphires), such items may be imported into the U.S., provided that the gemstones have been mounted or incorporated into jewellery outside of Burma and provided that the setting is not of a temporary nature (e.g., a string).

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Angela Berden
Angela Berden

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Lot Essay

Few jewels have captured the imagination and enthusiasm of connoisseurs and collectors as the Tutti Frutti creations by the Maison Cartier. These pieces are directly inspired by the intricate Mogul carving and craftsmanship found throughout the decorative arts of India from the 16th century onwards.

Jacques Cartier was to make his first trip to India in 1911. This visit had a profound effect on the jewels produced by the firm throughout the 1920s and 30s and indirectly affected the entire field of jewellery design which Cartier so strongly influenced. Alongside the rather severe, geometric Art Deco style, mainly executed in diamonds, Cartier produced vibrant Tutti Frutti jewels, full of colour and flowing naturalistic design. Summing up the influence that Mogul jewellery had on the designs of Cartier, Ettagale Blauer wrote, "Though strongly influenced by the Indian jewellery, the Cartier designs are marked only by the most finely extracted essence of that style: the spirit and colour are reproduced, but we see no trace of the coarseness of the original design." Such was the skill of the Cartier workshop at its zenith, reworking such exotic influences into consummately elegant jewels.

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