MEIJI PERIOD (LATE 19TH CENTURY)

The blocks (dangawari) of the ground are formed by ikat dyeing the warp threads and matching the main weft threads with orange. The background pattern is woven in continuous and discontinuous supplementary gold-leafed paper patterning wefts, and a floating pattern with discontinuous supplementary patterning wefts of polychrome silk forms the top layer; the lining is plain weave pale orange silk.
Peonies are associated with China and a Chinese sense of feminine beauty. Robes like this one with peony designs might be chosen for roles of Chinese beauties such as Yang Gueifei, mistress of the Tang emperor Xuanzong in the Noh play Yohiki.