The scarab motif has permeated jewellery design since the time of the ancient Egyptians, who worshiped this beetle as a symbol of the sun god.
Napoleon’s expedition to Egypt in 1798 began a renaissance in the fascination of Egyptian motifs in the decorative arts. After the opening of the Suez canal in 1867, all things Egyptian were again brought to the fore and jewellery with this design influence was very popular, including the scarab motif.
This fashion was revived in 1923 at the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb. Cartier were quick to recognise the design possibilities that Egyptian symbolism had to offer and both incorporated ancient fragments into their works, as well as using the prevalent imagery as inspiration for overall design. This particular brooch is an unusual example as it dates from a later period, the 1950s and combines both Cartier’s knowledge of Egyptian and Indian jewels, utilising a carved Indian emerald to represent the scarab’s wing covers.