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Lot Essay
Twelve-symbol blue robes are extremely rare, and less common than their yellow counterparts. The use of the blue color was associated with the Temple of Heaven, south of the palace, where the Emperor offered sacrifice at the winter solstice and also prayed for rain during the summer months.
The Twelve Ancient Symbols of Imperial Authority first appeared on the Manchu emperor's clothing after 1759. The Huangchao liqi tushi (Illustrated Precedents for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court), which was enforced in 1766, restricted the use of the Twelve Symbols to the Emperor. The symbols imply the notion of Imperial authority, signifying that the Emperor is the Ruler of the Universe. In the Qing dynasty, the first four symbols- sun, moon, stars, and mountain-were placed at the shoulders, chest and mid-back; the symbol of distinction (fu), hatchet, paired dragons, and the golden pheasant appeared at waist level; and temple-cups, aquatic grass, grains of millet, and flames were placed at knee level on the skirts of the coat.
Compare a very similar example, but in kesi rather than embroidery, and dated to the early 19th century, illustrated by R.D. Jacobsen, Imperial Silks, Ch'ing Dynasty Textiles in The Minneapolis Institute of Arts, vol. I, Minneapolis, 2000, pp. 82-3., no. 12. Compare, also, the embroidered fragment of a twelve-symbol blue robe, in the A.E.D.T.A. Collection, dated to the mid-Qianlong period, illustrated by J.E. Vollmer, Chinese Costume and Accessories, Paris, 1999, pl. 14.
The Twelve Ancient Symbols of Imperial Authority first appeared on the Manchu emperor's clothing after 1759. The Huangchao liqi tushi (Illustrated Precedents for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court), which was enforced in 1766, restricted the use of the Twelve Symbols to the Emperor. The symbols imply the notion of Imperial authority, signifying that the Emperor is the Ruler of the Universe. In the Qing dynasty, the first four symbols- sun, moon, stars, and mountain-were placed at the shoulders, chest and mid-back; the symbol of distinction (fu), hatchet, paired dragons, and the golden pheasant appeared at waist level; and temple-cups, aquatic grass, grains of millet, and flames were placed at knee level on the skirts of the coat.
Compare a very similar example, but in kesi rather than embroidery, and dated to the early 19th century, illustrated by R.D. Jacobsen, Imperial Silks, Ch'ing Dynasty Textiles in The Minneapolis Institute of Arts, vol. I, Minneapolis, 2000, pp. 82-3., no. 12. Compare, also, the embroidered fragment of a twelve-symbol blue robe, in the A.E.D.T.A. Collection, dated to the mid-Qianlong period, illustrated by J.E. Vollmer, Chinese Costume and Accessories, Paris, 1999, pl. 14.