UZBEKISTAN, BUKHARA, FIRST HALF 19TH CENTURY

Suzani, literally meaning "of needle" in Persian, refers to some of the most attractive inventions of Turkestan's traditional culture. Created by the women in what is today Uzbekistan and Tajikistan, suzanis were meant to embellish the interiors of homes and are found mostly in settled communities rather than tribal societies. They formed a vital part of a bride's dowry, and as such demonstrated a family's status. The communal task was begun by a professional draftswoman (kalamkesh) drawing the design on four to six loosely joined strips of homespun cotton. The lengths were then separated and embroidered by the bride's relatives. Once finished, the strips were sewn together, a process that accounts for the common irregularities along the seams, and colour variations in connecting strips. Our suzani exemplifies the features often associated with Bukhara suzanis. Typically, the rosettes and palmettes are strongly articulated in the border while the field's stems and scrolls are remarkably delicate. The finely worked chain stitching, combined with the rich and sensitive use of colour, summon up the appeal of a fine Bukhara piece. A recent example of a Bukhara Suzani sold at Sotheby’s London, 31 March 2021, lot 183.