Lot Essay
Presented in immaculately restored condition, this stunningly attractive reference 130A HP combines a steel case with a delectable Extract-confirmed salmon-pink dial with Breguet numerals, absolutely one of the most desirable of classic vintage Patek Philippe chronographs for the collector.
Steel cased Patek Philippe vintage wristwatches are unquestionably the most sought after of all case metals. Made in far fewer numbers than their precious metal equivalents, vintage steel chronographs in particular are practically always the rarest examples among their references and the reference 130 is certainly no exception. Of the approximately 1500 pieces made in total, only 270 were cased in steel and only just over 100 are still known to exist today. Furthermore, only 13 examples in steel with Breguet numerals are known publicly, so making the present watch an immense rarity among all vintage reference 130.
The present watch, cleaned and fully restored must look much as it did on the day of its purchase. A top-flight restoration has not only aesthetic but practical advantages in that the watch has been brought back up to its manufacture standard and can be enjoyed as originally intended. The ethos behind this is much the same as a ground-up rebuild of a classic car to concours standard so that it can be regularly used and admired. Therefore this incredibly good looking steel reference 130 is an ideal watch for those seeking an amazing vintage look combined with modern-day practicality – in other words a “new old steel ref. 130”.
The Dial
Type 21, salmon-pink with Breguet or ‘Heures Penchees’ and tachymeter, made by Stern Frères. Fully restored, re-surfaced and re-printed on the original dial plate which is correctly marked with Stern Frères identification codes. The original applied hand-cut white gold Breguet hour numerals were mirror-polished during restoration. Gold feuille service hands.
The Case
Serial no. 505’797, three-piece, extremely well restored with horizontal brushed finish on the band and the tops of the lugs are finished with circular brushing, the bezel is mirror-polished on the concave surface with the side brushed. The snap-on bezel and back are correctly marked, the pushers and crown were are superbly crisp and probably replaced during servicing.
The Movement
Serial no. 862’635, made in 1941, cal. 13’’’ CH, amagnetic mono-metallic balance, swan-neck micrometer regulator, stamped twice with Geneva seal. Fully restored and refinished using original Patek Philippe parts to replace small elements such as screws.
Reference 130
Reference 130 is known as being the first Patek Philippe wristwatch to have been given an individual reference number. The model is instantly recognizable by its Calatrava case, flat rectangular chronograph push buttons and concave bezel. Production was started in 1934 and the new chronograph was available in different precious metal versions as well as in stainless steel and with a variety of dial layouts. Reference 130 was originally introduced to satisfy the growing demand for wrist chronographs following the economic depression of the 1920s. Until the launch of the reference 130, Patek Philippe’s chronographs had only been available in very small numbers to a select few, mostly as unique pieces. The new series produced reference 130 were fitted with movements finished by the very best watchmakers with cases made by the best Geneva casemakers of the time and subsequently it became a true icon of Patek Philippe. The reference has since become one of the most collectable vintage chronographs of all due to the variety of case materials and dial designs that were available over its production period.
We are grateful to Eric Tortella for his assistance and study in researching this watch.
An almost identical watch is described and illustrated in: Patek Philippe Complicated Wrist Watches by Giampiero Negretti & Paolo de Vecchi, pp. 40 & 41.
Reference 130 is illustrated in: Patek Philippe – An Authorized Biography, Nicholas Foulkes, 2016, p. 168, further examples in the Patek Philippe Museum - Patek Philippe Watches, Vol. II, pp. 262 -265.
Steel cased Patek Philippe vintage wristwatches are unquestionably the most sought after of all case metals. Made in far fewer numbers than their precious metal equivalents, vintage steel chronographs in particular are practically always the rarest examples among their references and the reference 130 is certainly no exception. Of the approximately 1500 pieces made in total, only 270 were cased in steel and only just over 100 are still known to exist today. Furthermore, only 13 examples in steel with Breguet numerals are known publicly, so making the present watch an immense rarity among all vintage reference 130.
The present watch, cleaned and fully restored must look much as it did on the day of its purchase. A top-flight restoration has not only aesthetic but practical advantages in that the watch has been brought back up to its manufacture standard and can be enjoyed as originally intended. The ethos behind this is much the same as a ground-up rebuild of a classic car to concours standard so that it can be regularly used and admired. Therefore this incredibly good looking steel reference 130 is an ideal watch for those seeking an amazing vintage look combined with modern-day practicality – in other words a “new old steel ref. 130”.
The Dial
Type 21, salmon-pink with Breguet or ‘Heures Penchees’ and tachymeter, made by Stern Frères. Fully restored, re-surfaced and re-printed on the original dial plate which is correctly marked with Stern Frères identification codes. The original applied hand-cut white gold Breguet hour numerals were mirror-polished during restoration. Gold feuille service hands.
The Case
Serial no. 505’797, three-piece, extremely well restored with horizontal brushed finish on the band and the tops of the lugs are finished with circular brushing, the bezel is mirror-polished on the concave surface with the side brushed. The snap-on bezel and back are correctly marked, the pushers and crown were are superbly crisp and probably replaced during servicing.
The Movement
Serial no. 862’635, made in 1941, cal. 13’’’ CH, amagnetic mono-metallic balance, swan-neck micrometer regulator, stamped twice with Geneva seal. Fully restored and refinished using original Patek Philippe parts to replace small elements such as screws.
Reference 130
Reference 130 is known as being the first Patek Philippe wristwatch to have been given an individual reference number. The model is instantly recognizable by its Calatrava case, flat rectangular chronograph push buttons and concave bezel. Production was started in 1934 and the new chronograph was available in different precious metal versions as well as in stainless steel and with a variety of dial layouts. Reference 130 was originally introduced to satisfy the growing demand for wrist chronographs following the economic depression of the 1920s. Until the launch of the reference 130, Patek Philippe’s chronographs had only been available in very small numbers to a select few, mostly as unique pieces. The new series produced reference 130 were fitted with movements finished by the very best watchmakers with cases made by the best Geneva casemakers of the time and subsequently it became a true icon of Patek Philippe. The reference has since become one of the most collectable vintage chronographs of all due to the variety of case materials and dial designs that were available over its production period.
We are grateful to Eric Tortella for his assistance and study in researching this watch.
An almost identical watch is described and illustrated in: Patek Philippe Complicated Wrist Watches by Giampiero Negretti & Paolo de Vecchi, pp. 40 & 41.
Reference 130 is illustrated in: Patek Philippe – An Authorized Biography, Nicholas Foulkes, 2016, p. 168, further examples in the Patek Philippe Museum - Patek Philippe Watches, Vol. II, pp. 262 -265.