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Lot Essay
Last seen publicly more than a decade ago, this awe-inspiring and unique cloisonné enamel dial ‘Tahiti Forêt’ wristwatch decorated by perhaps the greatest enamel artist of the period, Marguerite Koch, is a stratospheric rarity even among the already ultra-rare group of Patek Philippe time-only references with cloisonné dials. Only 24 examples of the pink gold reference 1595R DE were made and of those 24, only two are known to exist with a cloisonné dial, each a unique piece - the present watch with ‘Tahiti Forêt’ cloisonné dial, the other with the ‘Santa Maria Caravelle’ design. The present watch has, until it was consigned for this auction, been part of a highly important private collection. Now Christie’s is extremely honoured and delighted to be able to offer one of the major Patek Philippe artisan rarities once again to international collectors.
The dial of the present watch should not be underestimated as a unique and entirely handmade work of art. It was created by one of the great enamel artists of the mid-20th century, Marguerite Koch, whose confidence and experience in working in the very difficult medium of ‘grand feu’ enamelling has rarely, if ever, been equalled. Most interestingly, the present dial has been identified in the work books of the dial makers Stern Frères as ‘Thaiti Forêt’, indeed, it immediately recalls the landscapes of Paul Gaugin, painted on the islands in the 1890s. This theme is very refined and different to the better known ‘jungle’ design as it features only one large palm-tree to the left, whereas the mountain centering the ‘jungle’ theme is flanked by trees on both sides. Not only is this enamel dial an incredible work of art impressing with luminosity and artistic flamboyancy, but the surface covered with enamel is the largest which can be found on any cloisonné wristwatch. In fact, several cloisonné dial circular wristwatches of other references feature the enamel scene in the centre of the dial and a brushed outer ring. The back of the present dial carries the correct coding: ‘93’ for the client, in this instance Patek Philippe and ‘11121’ as the order number when it was requested.
Patek Philippe wristwatches with cloisonné enamel dials rank amongst the rarest jewels within the widespread family of horological masterpieces. It goes without saying that the combination of such a lavish, colourful and artistic dial, paired with a unique status within the 1595 reference, catapults this vintage watch beyond exclusivity.
The Cloisonne Dial
Wonderfully preserved, made by Stern Frères in 1951-52, and decorated by the great enamellist Marguerite Koch, the present dial, called ‘Tahiti Forêt’ by Stern Frères, is one of the ravishingly beautiful and vivid cloisonné dials that were fitted to a very small number of time-only wristwatches. These cloisonné enamel dials quite naturally take a prominent position in terms of beauty, craftsmanship and rarity. Highly detailed and made by the very best enamel artists of the period, cloisonné enamel dials can be found decorated with other popular subjects such as tropical oasis, sail boats, flowers, portraits and maps. The dial maker Stern Frères supplied most of the great watch houses. The production of these solid gold dials was extremely costly as they had to be individually made by a skilled craftsman and not on a production line. The artist created the outline of the desired motif by arranging thin gold wires on a dial. These partitions, called ‘cloisons’ in French, were filled with small quantities of enamel powder in the desired colour. The dial was then fired in an oven at around 900 degrees Celsius causing the powder to melt. Finally it was hand-polished until a perfectly flat surface was obtained. Hand-made by celebrated enamel artists, notably Marguerite Koch and Nelly Richard, these dials can be regarded as superb and unique works of art in their own right.
Vintage cloisonne dials such as the present dial exhibit a certain colour palette which is softer and more tonal than modern enamels. The beautiful effects were achieved because in the 1950s, materials such as lead, mercury and cyanide were still being used in the enamelling process. For obvious reasons they can no longer used and the result is that the new enamel techniques seen on recent cloisonné enamel dial watches, for example, although still of the very best craftsmanship and masterfully executed, have a bolder less spontaneous quality. Collectors today understand these subtle differences and early examples from the 1950s such as the present watch are consequently very highly prized.
The Case
Serial number 422’869, made in 1952-1953 by Eggly & Cie (master casemaker mark 23 in a hammer). The unusual design of the two-piece reference 1595 case has voluptuous overhanging and prominent faceted lugs and for this reason it has been nicknamed ‘Giraffe’ by collectors. Remaining in excellent overall condition with full proportions and still legible hallmarks, the interior is correctly marked ‘869’, the last three digits of the case number, the integral bezel and lugs show no signs of restoration or repair. The gold winding crown can be attributed to Boninchi Frères of Geneva.
The Movement
Serial number 720’208, caliber 12 400, made in 1953 with cut bimetallic compensation balance and swan-neck micrometer regulator. The caliber 12 400 was manufactured between 1950 and 1960 with serial number range from 720’000 to 729’999.
We are grateful to Eric Tortella for his assistance and study in researching this watch.
Provenance:
The original owner, 1953.
Sold privately in the 2000s.
Christie’s Geneva, 12 November 2012, lot 185.
Christie’s Hong Kong, May 2023, the present auction.
The dial of the present watch should not be underestimated as a unique and entirely handmade work of art. It was created by one of the great enamel artists of the mid-20th century, Marguerite Koch, whose confidence and experience in working in the very difficult medium of ‘grand feu’ enamelling has rarely, if ever, been equalled. Most interestingly, the present dial has been identified in the work books of the dial makers Stern Frères as ‘Thaiti Forêt’, indeed, it immediately recalls the landscapes of Paul Gaugin, painted on the islands in the 1890s. This theme is very refined and different to the better known ‘jungle’ design as it features only one large palm-tree to the left, whereas the mountain centering the ‘jungle’ theme is flanked by trees on both sides. Not only is this enamel dial an incredible work of art impressing with luminosity and artistic flamboyancy, but the surface covered with enamel is the largest which can be found on any cloisonné wristwatch. In fact, several cloisonné dial circular wristwatches of other references feature the enamel scene in the centre of the dial and a brushed outer ring. The back of the present dial carries the correct coding: ‘93’ for the client, in this instance Patek Philippe and ‘11121’ as the order number when it was requested.
Patek Philippe wristwatches with cloisonné enamel dials rank amongst the rarest jewels within the widespread family of horological masterpieces. It goes without saying that the combination of such a lavish, colourful and artistic dial, paired with a unique status within the 1595 reference, catapults this vintage watch beyond exclusivity.
The Cloisonne Dial
Wonderfully preserved, made by Stern Frères in 1951-52, and decorated by the great enamellist Marguerite Koch, the present dial, called ‘Tahiti Forêt’ by Stern Frères, is one of the ravishingly beautiful and vivid cloisonné dials that were fitted to a very small number of time-only wristwatches. These cloisonné enamel dials quite naturally take a prominent position in terms of beauty, craftsmanship and rarity. Highly detailed and made by the very best enamel artists of the period, cloisonné enamel dials can be found decorated with other popular subjects such as tropical oasis, sail boats, flowers, portraits and maps. The dial maker Stern Frères supplied most of the great watch houses. The production of these solid gold dials was extremely costly as they had to be individually made by a skilled craftsman and not on a production line. The artist created the outline of the desired motif by arranging thin gold wires on a dial. These partitions, called ‘cloisons’ in French, were filled with small quantities of enamel powder in the desired colour. The dial was then fired in an oven at around 900 degrees Celsius causing the powder to melt. Finally it was hand-polished until a perfectly flat surface was obtained. Hand-made by celebrated enamel artists, notably Marguerite Koch and Nelly Richard, these dials can be regarded as superb and unique works of art in their own right.
Vintage cloisonne dials such as the present dial exhibit a certain colour palette which is softer and more tonal than modern enamels. The beautiful effects were achieved because in the 1950s, materials such as lead, mercury and cyanide were still being used in the enamelling process. For obvious reasons they can no longer used and the result is that the new enamel techniques seen on recent cloisonné enamel dial watches, for example, although still of the very best craftsmanship and masterfully executed, have a bolder less spontaneous quality. Collectors today understand these subtle differences and early examples from the 1950s such as the present watch are consequently very highly prized.
The Case
Serial number 422’869, made in 1952-1953 by Eggly & Cie (master casemaker mark 23 in a hammer). The unusual design of the two-piece reference 1595 case has voluptuous overhanging and prominent faceted lugs and for this reason it has been nicknamed ‘Giraffe’ by collectors. Remaining in excellent overall condition with full proportions and still legible hallmarks, the interior is correctly marked ‘869’, the last three digits of the case number, the integral bezel and lugs show no signs of restoration or repair. The gold winding crown can be attributed to Boninchi Frères of Geneva.
The Movement
Serial number 720’208, caliber 12 400, made in 1953 with cut bimetallic compensation balance and swan-neck micrometer regulator. The caliber 12 400 was manufactured between 1950 and 1960 with serial number range from 720’000 to 729’999.
We are grateful to Eric Tortella for his assistance and study in researching this watch.
Provenance:
The original owner, 1953.
Sold privately in the 2000s.
Christie’s Geneva, 12 November 2012, lot 185.
Christie’s Hong Kong, May 2023, the present auction.