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Lot Essay
This stainless steel reference 3700/1 made for Sultan Qaboos Bin Said of Oman is undoubtedly a thrilling prospect for both the Nautilus collector and those who seek the most elusive rarities of vintage Patek Philippe.
Only four examples of the steel reference 3700/1 made for the Sultan of Oman have so far been discovered. As such, these four watches are in the very top tier of rarity among all Nautilus. The present watch is particularly alluring due to its superbly charismatic tropical dial and distinctive white Khanjar emblem of Oman. Only sold at auction on one previous occasion, at which time it was a new discovery and fresh to the market, it is reassuring to know that it has had perhaps only two or three owners in the last 45 years. Excellent provenance combined with amazing overall condition make this watch one of the most magical steel Nautilus to be offered at auction.
Steel Nautilus Ref. 3700/1 ‘White Khanjar’ Tropical Dial Movement no. 1’304’896, Case no. 536’187 – An Appreciation
Dating from 1978, this is an early example from only the second year of Nautilus production, exhibiting some rare features exclusively found on such pieces.
This highly important watch is one of only four confirmed examples of the Nautilus 3700/1 in stainless steel made to special order for the Royal household of the Sultanate of Oman. Among the most desired and collectible of all Nautilus models, it is distinguished by the national emblem of Oman, the Khanjar dagger in a sheath superimposed upon two crossed swords, to the lower half of the dial.
The discovery of the present watch in 2021 brought the number of known examples to four in stainless steel that have ever reached the secondary open market:
- the first bearing case no. 536’201 and movement no. 1’304’954 was sold by Christie’s, Geneva, on 14 May 2012, lot 315
- the second bearing the immediately preceding case number 536’200 and movement number of only two digits difference, 1’304’952, was sold by Christie’s, Dubai, on 19 October 2016, lot 137.
- the third with case no. 536'186 and movement no. 1'304'895, was sold by Christie’s, Geneva, on 20 July 2020, lot 96.
- the fourth with immediately ascending case no. 536’187 and movement no. 1’304’896, was sold by Monaco Legend Auctions, 17 October 2021, lot 213. The Present Watch.
It is most significant that all four of these exceptional Nautilus watches not only have serial numbers within close proximity of each other, but were all sold on the very same day – 31 July 1978. This shows clearly that they were all part of a specially designated order produced for His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said.
During the 1970s, there were no official watch agents in Oman and so almost all the watches made by Patek Philippe and various other brands with “Khanjar” dials were supplied through the ultra-high-end London retailer, Asprey of New Bond Street, and occasionally through their Geneva branch.
Detailed analysis of the present watch has identified the following technical details associated with the early years of Nautilus production:
The Dial
It is well known that the very earliest Nautilus dials from 1976 (designated by Mstanga as ‘type 1’) feature baton minute divisions. Less well known is the ‘type 1B’ dial which are the very first dials ever to bear the familiar dot minute indexes yet still retaining the ‘type 1’ signature style.
The dial of the present watch is one of these elusive type 1B dials, made only for a very short time before the ‘type 2’ was introduced. Beautifully and extensively displaying tropicalization, the luminous material of the indexes and hands is pleasingly aged.
The Case
The case patent design of the original Nautilus reference 3700/1 was registered on 23 April 1976, made for Patek Philippe by Favre-Perret SA, Le Crêt du Locle, from 1976 until 1981 when production was transferred to Patek’s own Ateliers Réunis workshops. It comprises two parts, the main body and the bezel, at each side is an “ear” which couples with a corresponding flange, the two parts are secured by lateral screws. A rubber seal sits between the bezel and case body and is thus compressed when subject to water pressure forming a perfect watertight seal.
Only four examples of the steel reference 3700/1 made for the Sultan of Oman have so far been discovered. As such, these four watches are in the very top tier of rarity among all Nautilus. The present watch is particularly alluring due to its superbly charismatic tropical dial and distinctive white Khanjar emblem of Oman. Only sold at auction on one previous occasion, at which time it was a new discovery and fresh to the market, it is reassuring to know that it has had perhaps only two or three owners in the last 45 years. Excellent provenance combined with amazing overall condition make this watch one of the most magical steel Nautilus to be offered at auction.
Steel Nautilus Ref. 3700/1 ‘White Khanjar’ Tropical Dial Movement no. 1’304’896, Case no. 536’187 – An Appreciation
Dating from 1978, this is an early example from only the second year of Nautilus production, exhibiting some rare features exclusively found on such pieces.
This highly important watch is one of only four confirmed examples of the Nautilus 3700/1 in stainless steel made to special order for the Royal household of the Sultanate of Oman. Among the most desired and collectible of all Nautilus models, it is distinguished by the national emblem of Oman, the Khanjar dagger in a sheath superimposed upon two crossed swords, to the lower half of the dial.
The discovery of the present watch in 2021 brought the number of known examples to four in stainless steel that have ever reached the secondary open market:
- the first bearing case no. 536’201 and movement no. 1’304’954 was sold by Christie’s, Geneva, on 14 May 2012, lot 315
- the second bearing the immediately preceding case number 536’200 and movement number of only two digits difference, 1’304’952, was sold by Christie’s, Dubai, on 19 October 2016, lot 137.
- the third with case no. 536'186 and movement no. 1'304'895, was sold by Christie’s, Geneva, on 20 July 2020, lot 96.
- the fourth with immediately ascending case no. 536’187 and movement no. 1’304’896, was sold by Monaco Legend Auctions, 17 October 2021, lot 213. The Present Watch.
It is most significant that all four of these exceptional Nautilus watches not only have serial numbers within close proximity of each other, but were all sold on the very same day – 31 July 1978. This shows clearly that they were all part of a specially designated order produced for His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said.
During the 1970s, there were no official watch agents in Oman and so almost all the watches made by Patek Philippe and various other brands with “Khanjar” dials were supplied through the ultra-high-end London retailer, Asprey of New Bond Street, and occasionally through their Geneva branch.
Detailed analysis of the present watch has identified the following technical details associated with the early years of Nautilus production:
The Dial
It is well known that the very earliest Nautilus dials from 1976 (designated by Mstanga as ‘type 1’) feature baton minute divisions. Less well known is the ‘type 1B’ dial which are the very first dials ever to bear the familiar dot minute indexes yet still retaining the ‘type 1’ signature style.
The dial of the present watch is one of these elusive type 1B dials, made only for a very short time before the ‘type 2’ was introduced. Beautifully and extensively displaying tropicalization, the luminous material of the indexes and hands is pleasingly aged.
The Case
The case patent design of the original Nautilus reference 3700/1 was registered on 23 April 1976, made for Patek Philippe by Favre-Perret SA, Le Crêt du Locle, from 1976 until 1981 when production was transferred to Patek’s own Ateliers Réunis workshops. It comprises two parts, the main body and the bezel, at each side is an “ear” which couples with a corresponding flange, the two parts are secured by lateral screws. A rubber seal sits between the bezel and case body and is thus compressed when subject to water pressure forming a perfect watertight seal.