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Lot Essay
Christie’s is thrilled to present for the first time at auction this astonishing yellow gold Nautilus reference 3700/1 made for the Sultan of Oman in 1978. Not only one of the rarest of all vintage gold Nautilus with an almost mythical status, it is also, to the best of our knowledge fresh to the market and was previously unknown to scholars. Until the discovery of the present watch, only three examples of the yellow gold Nautilus reference 3700 with ‘Khanjar’ dial were known worldwide. This superlative gold Nautilus ‘Khanjar’, now the fourth known example, is without question one of the most important and significant new discoveries of recent years, moreover, it is also preserved in superb original condition. The dial is completely untouched and shows the first signs of tropicalization at the 7 and 8 o’clock markers, the gold-coloured ‘Khanjar’ emblem of the Sultanate of Oman is beautifully printed above 6 o’clock. The case and bracelet are absolutely crisp and sharp and appears to have been very little worn in the last 45 years. The last three digits of the serial number ‘350’ is correctly engraved on the underside of the bezel.
Until the appearance of the present watch, only three examples in yellow gold were known publicly. The present watch with movement no. 1'305'064 and case no. 537'350 is the second earliest example so far discovered. All four known examples have movement and case numbers with a very close proximity (2 or 3 numbers distant) to each other and were all made in 1978. This shows clearly that they were all part of a specially designated order produced for His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said.
A man of undeniably exquisite taste and also a watch enthusiast, His Late Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said owned and offered as gifts innumerable timepieces. Some of these watches have made modern horological history as symbols of the ultimate level of watch collecting. His Majesty sometimes offered gifts for outstanding service to loyal servants, members of the administration and citizens. Depending on the level and importance of the occasion, the gift of watches varied from simple timepieces to fine Patek Philippe watches.
A must-have for both the Nautilus collector and the collector of Omani designated watches, the discovery of this watch presents perhaps the only chance to own one of the most exclusive of all variations of the truly landmark reference 3700/1.
The Dial
Made by Stern Frères, beautifully preserved and beginning to display the very first signs of tropicalization, the luminous material of the indexes and hands is uniformly and pleasingly aged, the ‘Khanjar’ emblem is delicately printed in gold.
The Case
The case patent design of the original Nautilus reference 3700/1 was registered on 23 April 1976, made for Patek Philippe by Favre-Perret SA, Le Crêt du Locle, from 1976 until 1981 when production was transferred to Patek’s own Ateliers Réunis workshops. It comprises two parts, the main body and the bezel, at each side is an “ear” which couples with a corresponding flange, the two parts are secured by lateral screws. A rubber seal sits between the bezel and case body and is thus compressed when subject to water pressure forming a perfect watertight seal.
The Movement Caliber 28-255 C
Generally agreed to be one of the greatest watch calibers, it was based on the original Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920 of 1967 and is regarded as one of the most beautiful and refined automatic movements ever produced. Crucially it is also very thin at only 3.15 mm., therefore highly appropriate for the slim and elegant Nautilus. The development of the caliber 920 was partly jointly financed by Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. Audemars Piguet fitted their version, now the revered caliber 2120, into the Royal Oak, a further shared familial link with the Nautilus. Vacheron Constantin’s version became their caliber 1120. The caliber 28-255 C is 12.5 lignes and has 36 jewels and 19,800 vibrations. It is supplied with the shock-protected free-sprung Gyromax balance with eight rotatable weights allowing rate adjustment without the need for a conventional regulator index. The winding rotor is formed from a beryllium ring with 21K gold rim, this clever design with four additional ruby rollers to support the rotor around its periphery allows the thinness of the movement to remain uncompromised.
The Bracelet
The wider 16 mm. bracelet, correct for the period, is noteworthy because it is one of the rarely seen very early examples made by the revered firm of Gay Frères who set the benchmark for making superior quality bracelets. Nautilus bracelets made by Gay Frères are among the most desirable and sought after by collectors.
His Majesty Sultan Qaboos Bin Said Al Said (1940-2020)
Born on 18th November 1940 in Salalah, Dhofar, His Majesty was the only son of Sultan Said bin Taimur and Princess Mazoon al-Mashani. His education took place in Salalah, India, where he studied under Dhayal Sharma, the former President of India, and eventually in England. At the age of 20, he began his military training and joined the Royal Military Academy in Sandhurst, eventually serving in Germany for one year in the Scottish Rifles.
His Majesty ascended to the throne on 23rd July 1970. An absolute monarch, he proved himself a successful ruler, using the revenues obtained from oil to modernize his country. With his guidance, his country and subjects enjoyed countless advances, both social and technological. Oman has strengthened international relations, both in the Middle Eastern area, and on a more global scale. Newspapers are now permitted and schools, highways, hotels and shopping centres have been built. A substantial amount of money is now spent on healthcare and education. The Sultan also permitted parliamentary elections, during which women were allowed to vote and be elected. The parliament enjoys legislative powers. The foreign policy of his Majesty was formal neutrality. Oman has good relationships with Iran as well as Britain and USA. As a result, His late Majesty Qaboos often acted as intermediary between Iran and USA.
Beyond his enthusiasm for watches, the Sultan's interests also included music. He was an avid fan of classical music, with a particular penchant for the pipe organ. The Omani orchestra is one of the most appreciated in Middle East.
Until the appearance of the present watch, only three examples in yellow gold were known publicly. The present watch with movement no. 1'305'064 and case no. 537'350 is the second earliest example so far discovered. All four known examples have movement and case numbers with a very close proximity (2 or 3 numbers distant) to each other and were all made in 1978. This shows clearly that they were all part of a specially designated order produced for His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said.
A man of undeniably exquisite taste and also a watch enthusiast, His Late Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said owned and offered as gifts innumerable timepieces. Some of these watches have made modern horological history as symbols of the ultimate level of watch collecting. His Majesty sometimes offered gifts for outstanding service to loyal servants, members of the administration and citizens. Depending on the level and importance of the occasion, the gift of watches varied from simple timepieces to fine Patek Philippe watches.
A must-have for both the Nautilus collector and the collector of Omani designated watches, the discovery of this watch presents perhaps the only chance to own one of the most exclusive of all variations of the truly landmark reference 3700/1.
The Dial
Made by Stern Frères, beautifully preserved and beginning to display the very first signs of tropicalization, the luminous material of the indexes and hands is uniformly and pleasingly aged, the ‘Khanjar’ emblem is delicately printed in gold.
The Case
The case patent design of the original Nautilus reference 3700/1 was registered on 23 April 1976, made for Patek Philippe by Favre-Perret SA, Le Crêt du Locle, from 1976 until 1981 when production was transferred to Patek’s own Ateliers Réunis workshops. It comprises two parts, the main body and the bezel, at each side is an “ear” which couples with a corresponding flange, the two parts are secured by lateral screws. A rubber seal sits between the bezel and case body and is thus compressed when subject to water pressure forming a perfect watertight seal.
The Movement Caliber 28-255 C
Generally agreed to be one of the greatest watch calibers, it was based on the original Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920 of 1967 and is regarded as one of the most beautiful and refined automatic movements ever produced. Crucially it is also very thin at only 3.15 mm., therefore highly appropriate for the slim and elegant Nautilus. The development of the caliber 920 was partly jointly financed by Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. Audemars Piguet fitted their version, now the revered caliber 2120, into the Royal Oak, a further shared familial link with the Nautilus. Vacheron Constantin’s version became their caliber 1120. The caliber 28-255 C is 12.5 lignes and has 36 jewels and 19,800 vibrations. It is supplied with the shock-protected free-sprung Gyromax balance with eight rotatable weights allowing rate adjustment without the need for a conventional regulator index. The winding rotor is formed from a beryllium ring with 21K gold rim, this clever design with four additional ruby rollers to support the rotor around its periphery allows the thinness of the movement to remain uncompromised.
The Bracelet
The wider 16 mm. bracelet, correct for the period, is noteworthy because it is one of the rarely seen very early examples made by the revered firm of Gay Frères who set the benchmark for making superior quality bracelets. Nautilus bracelets made by Gay Frères are among the most desirable and sought after by collectors.
His Majesty Sultan Qaboos Bin Said Al Said (1940-2020)
Born on 18th November 1940 in Salalah, Dhofar, His Majesty was the only son of Sultan Said bin Taimur and Princess Mazoon al-Mashani. His education took place in Salalah, India, where he studied under Dhayal Sharma, the former President of India, and eventually in England. At the age of 20, he began his military training and joined the Royal Military Academy in Sandhurst, eventually serving in Germany for one year in the Scottish Rifles.
His Majesty ascended to the throne on 23rd July 1970. An absolute monarch, he proved himself a successful ruler, using the revenues obtained from oil to modernize his country. With his guidance, his country and subjects enjoyed countless advances, both social and technological. Oman has strengthened international relations, both in the Middle Eastern area, and on a more global scale. Newspapers are now permitted and schools, highways, hotels and shopping centres have been built. A substantial amount of money is now spent on healthcare and education. The Sultan also permitted parliamentary elections, during which women were allowed to vote and be elected. The parliament enjoys legislative powers. The foreign policy of his Majesty was formal neutrality. Oman has good relationships with Iran as well as Britain and USA. As a result, His late Majesty Qaboos often acted as intermediary between Iran and USA.
Beyond his enthusiasm for watches, the Sultan's interests also included music. He was an avid fan of classical music, with a particular penchant for the pipe organ. The Omani orchestra is one of the most appreciated in Middle East.