ROLEX. A RARE AND HIGHLY ATTRACTIVE 18K GOLD AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS, DATE, TROPICAL DIAL AND BRACELET
ROLEX. A RARE AND HIGHLY ATTRACTIVE 18K GOLD AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS, DATE, TROPICAL DIAL AND BRACELET
ROLEX. A RARE AND HIGHLY ATTRACTIVE 18K GOLD AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS, DATE, TROPICAL DIAL AND BRACELET
ROLEX. A RARE AND HIGHLY ATTRACTIVE 18K GOLD AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS, DATE, TROPICAL DIAL AND BRACELET
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ROLEXSUBMARINER 'TROPICAL' REF. 1680
ROLEX. A RARE AND HIGHLY ATTRACTIVE 18K GOLD AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS, DATE, TROPICAL DIAL AND BRACELET

SIGNED ROLEX, SUBMARINER MODEL, REF. 1680, CASE NO. 5'259'041, CIRCA 1978

Details
ROLEX. A RARE AND HIGHLY ATTRACTIVE 18K GOLD AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP CENTRE SECONDS, DATE, TROPICAL DIAL AND BRACELET
SIGNED ROLEX, SUBMARINER MODEL, REF. 1680, CASE NO. 5'259'041, CIRCA 1978
Movement: Automatic
Dial: Tropical
Case: 40 mm. diam.
With: 18k gold Rolex Oyster bracelet and deployant clasp, overall length approximately 190 mm.

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Remi Guillemin
Remi Guillemin Head of Watches, Europe and Americas

Lot Essay

Reference 1680 is probably the best-known vintage iteration of the legendary Submariner line. As befitting a tool watch such as this, created to defy the pressure and hazards of the oceanic depth, most of these watches were realized in steel. A few exceptions to the rule were however made, and this timepiece is among the most remarkable of such exceptions.

This stupendous ‘tropical dial’ gold reference 1680 is unquestionably one of the most beautiful and evenly tropicalized examples ever to have been offered at international auction, it would certainly be hard to beat in terms of visuality, condition and rarity. Made circa 1978, it remains in wonderful overall condition with a well-preserved case of great proportions and displaying crisp hallmarks. The yellow gold case and deep blue bezel insert serve to further emphasize the highly charismatic tropical dial.

Indeed, what elevates the present watch to the highest level of desirability is that the tropicalization process is absolutely even throughout the dial, resulting in the most appealing and astonishing rich chestnut brown tone. The aesthetic impact of this ‘tropical’ dial gold Submariner is born from the natural ageing process of the dial and in this sense it is therefore unique. Interestingly, no two dials age or exhibit colour change in quite the same way, so that truly gorgeous examples such as the present watch, with an even colour change and lovely tone, are created entirely by a lucky fluke of nature over several decades.

The present dial type is the so-called ‘bicchierini’ or ‘nipple’ dial, referring to the applied dot indexes with stylish gold surround. The gilt graphics are particular to the gold version of the reference 1680 and complement the watch perfectly.

Both highly attractive and eminently wearable, this gold Submariner with its magical combination of colour change dial and superb overall condition is sure to impress even the most demanding of collectors.

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