Lot Essay
This textile originally formed part of a larger lavish robe of the same design. The drawing of the rose bush relates closely to a drawing by the Safavid artist Shafi 'Abbasi in the Yale University Art Gallery (inv. no. 1937.4769, see Carol Bier (ed.), Woven from the Soul, Spun from the Heart, exhibition catalogue, Washington D.C. 1987, p. 174).
Another fragment of the brocade is sewn to a border of a chausuble in the Museuo d'Arte Sacra from the Convento di San Francesco in Greve in Chianti, Italy. The very high quality of the drawing and weaving in our fragment as well at that in Italy is comparable to Safavid brocades dedicated to the shrine in Najaf (Mehmet Aga-Oglu, Safawid Rugs and Textiles. The Collection of the Shrine of Imam 'Ali at Al-Najaf, New York, 1941). As royal dedications, the Najaf textiles were probably woven in a royal workshop and the comparable quality of the present brocade would suggest the same.