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Lot Essay
After establishing itself as Italy’s premier house for sensational jewelry design, Bulgari advanced further by venturing into the international market during the 1970s. In 1972, Bulgari opened its first US-based storefront in the Pierre Hotel in New York, making its entry into the American market. That same year, the brand launched a new collection titled ‘Stars and Stripes,’ signifying its growing connection to the United States.
Also known as ‘Star Spangled Banner,’ the design incorporates colors and elements of the U.S. flag – five pointed stars and stripes in red, white and blue. Diamonds accent red and blue plaques of coral, enamel or lapis lazuli in necklaces, bracelets, rings and cufflinks. The release of the patriotic collection was followed by the 1976 bicentennial celebration of the United States’ signing of the Declaration of Independence, gathering further endearment from jewelry collectors of the region.
The significance of the design is not only attributed to the house’s relationship with the country, but also the rise of Pop art during this time. As the Pop art movement gained popularity in the 1950s and 60s and continued to flourish in the 1970s, its influence extended to the realm of high jewelry, with day-to-day objects and symbols transforming into pop icons. One of such symbols was the American flag, exemplified by Bulgari’s ‘Stars and Stripes.’
What distinguishes ‘Stars and Stripes’ from many other representations of this popular motif is that it does not simply replicate the flag in its entirety. For instance, Lot 9 incorporates stars and stripes from the flag that are depicted in a row of vividly colored heart-shaped plaques neighboring each other, each encircled by Bulgari’s signature eye-capturing bold lines. Alternatively, Lot 10 features red and blue-enameled spherical motifs along with Bulgari’s renowned Tubogas design, incorporating the flag motif with iconic metalwork used by the firm. In multiple variations of ‘Stars and Stripes,’ the designs integrate Bulgari’s distinctive styles with elements of the American flag, suggesting new creative directions for the emblem.
Also known as ‘Star Spangled Banner,’ the design incorporates colors and elements of the U.S. flag – five pointed stars and stripes in red, white and blue. Diamonds accent red and blue plaques of coral, enamel or lapis lazuli in necklaces, bracelets, rings and cufflinks. The release of the patriotic collection was followed by the 1976 bicentennial celebration of the United States’ signing of the Declaration of Independence, gathering further endearment from jewelry collectors of the region.
The significance of the design is not only attributed to the house’s relationship with the country, but also the rise of Pop art during this time. As the Pop art movement gained popularity in the 1950s and 60s and continued to flourish in the 1970s, its influence extended to the realm of high jewelry, with day-to-day objects and symbols transforming into pop icons. One of such symbols was the American flag, exemplified by Bulgari’s ‘Stars and Stripes.’
What distinguishes ‘Stars and Stripes’ from many other representations of this popular motif is that it does not simply replicate the flag in its entirety. For instance, Lot 9 incorporates stars and stripes from the flag that are depicted in a row of vividly colored heart-shaped plaques neighboring each other, each encircled by Bulgari’s signature eye-capturing bold lines. Alternatively, Lot 10 features red and blue-enameled spherical motifs along with Bulgari’s renowned Tubogas design, incorporating the flag motif with iconic metalwork used by the firm. In multiple variations of ‘Stars and Stripes,’ the designs integrate Bulgari’s distinctive styles with elements of the American flag, suggesting new creative directions for the emblem.