VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, 
'WITCHES' COLLECTION, 
AUTUMN-WINTER 1983
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, 
'WITCHES' COLLECTION, 
AUTUMN-WINTER 1983
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, 
'WITCHES' COLLECTION, 
AUTUMN-WINTER 1983
6 More
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, 
'WITCHES' COLLECTION, 
AUTUMN-WINTER 1983
9 More
WitchesThis collection, Witches, confirmed that Vivienne Westwood was heading in a new direction and away from punk. This collection was the first to be presented in the Cour Carrée du Louvre, the official ready-to-wear show space of the Paris shows but the last on which she collaborated with Malcolm Mclaren. Inspiration came, firstly, from the 1978 book Voodoo and Magic Practices, written by Jean Kerboull, a missionary priest in Haiti. Secondly, it was inspired by meeting Keith Haring in New York in late 1982. The enthusiastic and warm-hearted encounter led to the printing and weaving Haring’s designs (which he generously gifted) in jersey and sweatshirt cotton. Thirdly the collection drew on NY Hip Hop and breakdance energy. Westwood is credited with the first use of the ‘fashion trainer' on the couture runway. In this collection Westwood’s innovative use of geometric panels would also become a blueprint for ‘no waste’ tailoring.It would be the last Worlds End collection presented by McLaren and Westwood, Malcolm’s input had become smaller as his interest moved towards music which Vivienne discusses in her autobiography (V. Westwood and I. Kelly, Vivienne Westwood, London, 2014, p. 249).
WORLD’S END, 'WITCHES' COLLECTIONAUTUMN-WINTER 1983

A NAVY BLUE SERGE TWO PIECE ENSEMBLE

Details
WORLD’S END, 'WITCHES' COLLECTION
AUTUMN-WINTER 1983
A NAVY BLUE SERGE TWO PIECE ENSEMBLE
Comprising a square shouldered boxy jacket with lamb's horn toggles; lined in cream blanket; the pleated skirt with cream jersey tubular extended waistband, with 'World's End' label, Westwood & McLaren, Gold Label
Literature
C. Wilcox, Vivienne Westwood, London, 2004, pp. 69, 198, illustrated.
A. Fury, Vivienne Westwood Catwalk: The Complete Collections, London, 2021, p.85, identical model illustrated.
Further details
The Estate of Vivienne Westwood will donate 100% of the total hammer proceeds received for the sale of her personal wardrobe, less auction expenses, to be split equally between The Vivienne Foundation, Médecins Sans Frontières (a charity registered in England and Wales with charity number 1026588) and Amnesty International (registered in England and Wales with charity number 1051681).

Brought to you by

Adrian Hume-Sayer
Adrian Hume-Sayer Director, Specialist

Lot Essay

This, the earliest look included in the sale, shows how the meeting of Keith Haring and Vivienne in New York led to a collaboration between equals and between artists. The silhouette is revolutionary, especially on the shoulder line and influenced couture very strongly in the years to follow. The tightly bound jersey tube skirt was teamed with blue serge - not a previously known couture combination. She teamed the design not with high heels but with three tongued trainers with an in-built heel. It was still recognisable from the streets. The trainers have also become a design classic.

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