Lot Essay
Named after her husband and co-designer Andreas Kronthaler, the McAndreas tartan was designed by Vivienne Westwood for her ‘Anglomania’ collection in Autumn/Winter 1993–1994.
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AnglomaniaVivienne was appointed Professor of Fashion at the Berliner Hochschule der Künste in 1993. Just as the Wallace Collection is an amalgamation of French decorative objects and art viewed through an English eye, so Westwood’s ‘Anglomania’ was then filtered through her reinvigorated love of European arts and culture. Presented at Le Cercle Républicain in the very heart of Paris, the Anglomania show became infamous when Naomi Campbell slipped in her electric blue mock-crocodile ‘super elevated’ shoes - their ghillie lacing inspired by traditional Highland footgear. For this collection, Westwood worked with weavers Lochcarron of Scotland to design her own tartan – the MacAndreas, named after her husband and creative partner Andreas Kronthaler, and added it to the Scottish Register of Tartans in the same year. A notable development of this collection was Westwood’s use of her signature corset not as an outerwear piece but as a foundation on which to build increasingly grand evening dresses. She also introduced a new labelling system, naming her catwalk collections ‘Gold Label’ and producing them in London to demi-couture standards. Kate Moss closed this show, as a plaid-swathed bride. She, and other high-profile supermodels, had by now become fixtures in Westwood’s shows, were paid in clothes.
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, 'ANGLOMANIA' COLLECTION, AUTUMN-WINTER 1993 / 94
A WOOL MACANDREAS TARTAN SUIT
Details
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD,
'ANGLOMANIA' COLLECTION,
AUTUMN-WINTER 1993 / 94
A WOOL MACANDREAS TARTAN SUIT
Comprising a fitted jacket with purple velvet collar, fastening asymmetrically with gilt 'Orb' buttons, the kilt full length, Gold Label
'ANGLOMANIA' COLLECTION,
AUTUMN-WINTER 1993 / 94
A WOOL MACANDREAS TARTAN SUIT
Comprising a fitted jacket with purple velvet collar, fastening asymmetrically with gilt 'Orb' buttons, the kilt full length, Gold Label
Literature
A. Fury, Vivienne Westwood Catwalk: The Complete Collections, London, 2021, p. 297, different colourway illustrated.
Further details
The Estate of Vivienne Westwood will donate 100% of the total hammer proceeds received for the sale of her personal wardrobe, less auction expenses, to be split equally between The Vivienne Foundation, Médecins Sans Frontières (a charity registered in England and Wales with charity number 1026588) and Amnesty International (registered in England and Wales with charity number 1051681).